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) OUR HAEDY GRAPES: 



( 



) ^ 



) WHAT TO PLANT; 



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<5 



I 

) I 

\ (I* 

) HOW TO PLANT, TRAIN, AND { 

) MANAQE THEM. 

\ I 

] . ^ 

y ^ y 

^ * BY J. M. KXOWLTON, U 

'J tahrytowx, n. y. V i 

% 

1 






'H 



NEW YORK: h 

PUBLISHED BY COUTAXT & BAKES, ( 

EDITORS 07 THE PRACTICAL FAR3IEB. / 

25 Park Row. ; 

1S63. f 



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ri. 



y^ E^ AGJEi\TS \VAMTJEI> to sell loiia Vines and 

lONA SEEDLINGS, grown bj Dr. C. W. Grant, lona Island, near 
Peekskill, N. Y. 

h These Vines embrace some 50 sorts of the most early an<l hardy 
varieties, and are warranted true to name. It is well known that Dr. 
Grant's vines are superior for out-door cultivation ; and, from our long 
experience in the business, we unhesitatingly recommend them, and 
are prepared to furnish the same at the lowest market rates, and will 
also negotiate with Canvassers or local Agents, at Club rates. Call 
upon, or address for partculars, Z. R. H5i\CI£L4l', 

Office of the Practical Farmer, No. 25, Park Row, N. Y. 

K *^* We here annex a collection of 100 vines for Garden cultivation : 
also, a collection of 500 for Field cultivation — Hardy. 

FOR THE GARDEN. | FOR THE FIELD. 

J 40 Delaware, 20 lona, 1 200 Delaware, 50 Isiaella, 

5 Diana, 5 It^raella, j 25 Diana, 25 Hartford Trolific, 

5 Concord, 5 Lincoln, j 50 Concord, 

1 Canby's August, 2 V. Village, ' 50 Allen's Hybrid, 

1 Herbeinont, 10 Allen, 100 lona. 

4 Klsingburg, 2 Anna, \ 500 

CHAPTER I. page 

OUR hardy grapes ! WH.\T TO PLANT HOW TO PLANT, 

^ TRAIN AND MANAGE THEM, ..... 3 

CPIAPTER II. , 

WHERE TO PLANT HOW TO PLANT, . . . . 15 

CHAPTER III. 

MODE OF CULTURE AND TRAINING, . . . .30 

CHAPTER lY. ^ 

OTHER SYSTEMS OF TRAINING, ..... 47 

CHAPTER V. 
% HOW TO PROCURE, PREPARE AND PRESERVE VINES FOR 
K PLANTING, ........ 56 

1^ CHAPTER YI. 

k PROTECTION FROM DROUGHT INSECT ENEMIES *, HOW TO 

\\ TREAT THEM, AND TO PREPARE FOR WINTER, . . 62 

'i CHAPTERYII. 

(j HOW THE VINE IS PROPAGATED, . . . . . 70 



£= -4-" i ^ *' >> ^ ^ > ^ — te_V— <- 1*:^ 



QUE HARDY GRAPES;" 

WHAT TO PLANT-i,^, V 



HOW TO PLANT, TRAIN, AND 
MANAGE THEM. 






BY J. M. KNOWLTO:^', 

TARKYTOWN, N. T. 




NEW YOKK: 

PUBLISHED BY COUTANT & BAKER 

EDITORS OP THE PRACTICAL FARMER. 



/i'/ 



25 Park Row 

1863. 




4./J%^ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863, bj 
COUTANT & BAKER, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the 
Southern District of New York. 






■2^^ 




^m^s^A©^ 



The subject of Grape Culture has attracted so 
much attention, during the last few years, and the va- 
rieties under cultivation, as well as the amount of land 
cultivated has increased so much, that the public mind 
has been awakened to its importance ; and the queV 
tions treated of in this little book are often asked, and 
on every side. It seemed, therefore, proper that a 
small work should be prepared, embracing, in a short 
and concise form, the principal topics necessary to a 
thorough understanding of the subject. 

That the Author of this little treatise has accom- 
plished a task which will make the reader comprehend 
any of the new and scientific theories with regard to 
grape culture, he does not claim ; nor that he has un- 
veiled any mystery before hidden. His aim has been 
only to give plain and explicit directions, in such lan- 
guage that all can understand, and so simple that all 
can follow. The art of grape growing depends on th;^ 
commonest laws of production and increase, and h? 
has tried to lay before his readers such practical direc- 



IV PREFACE. 

tions, as one would give to his assistant in the actual 
operations of the field or garden. He has endeavored 
to tell what and how to do, more than what could or 
might be done, and to deal with facts, rather than 
with theories. He has purposely left out the mention 
of many varieties not generally known, not thorough- 
ly proved, or easily procurable, and has said nothing 
of wine making in detail, because he believes that 
most of the gi'apes raised in the vicinity of our sea- 
board cities, will be wanted for many years to come for 
table purposes, and those who have any idea of making 
wine at present, in the localities mentioned, will find 
it less profitable than fruit growing. 

Knowing that success depends on careful culture, 
and obedience to nature's laws, he has endeavored, only 
so far as these go, to explain the secret of success ; and, 
hoping he may be instrumental in spreading and in- 
creasing the love and knowledge of the best of fruits, 
he commends his work to the kind consideration and 
indulgence of its readers. 



OUR HARBY GRAPES. 



CHAPTER I. 

OUR HARDY GRAPES ! WHAT TO PLANT — HOW TO 



For a person about to engage in the culture of the grape, 
the first question which naturally presents itself is, what va- 
riety shall I plant ? and the question more readily arises in 
conseqence of the great multiplicity of varieties which have 
arisen during the last ten years. When we had but the old 
kinds — Isabella, Catawba, &c. it was very easy to decide 
whether it was profitable or not to engage in the culture ; 
as the profit was in exact accordance with the adaptability 
of the particular location to these particular species. In the 
neighborhood of Cincinnati, on the islands of Lake Erie, and 
in some other favored localities, the Catawba has been for a 
long time, and still is, to a great extent, the particular vine. 
At Croton Point, Nyack, Rockland Lake, and wherever, as a 
general rule, in this Jatitude, there is an eastern or southern in- 
clination, in the vicinity of water, all our hardy northern va- 



6 OUR HAEDY GRAPES. 

rieties will succeed ; but more particularly the Isabella, is 
the great market variety. New York and Boston are sup- 
plied with it. It grows on alipost every cottage wall, and in 
every private garden — acts as a border and covering to walks, 
and as. a screen to kitchen doors, and is in fact, in the neigh- 
l)(>rhood of New York, the grape for the people. In flavor, 
it is delicious, and grows upon the taste with long continu- 
ed use ; rarely failing to give a good crop, and, in the loca- 
tions mentioned, notwithstanding the introduction of other 
varieties, perhaps four-fifths of the grapes sent to market are 
Isabellas. 

Yet with all these facts it is essentially a local grape. In 
many instances, two miles from the places where it is most 
cultivated, it will not grow at all. A dividing ridge of land, 
a little variation of soil, the prevalence of particular currents 
of air, and many other causes, may mark the line between 
great productiveness, and almost total barrenness. The Ca- 
tawba, as a general rule, in the neighborhood of New York 
and further north, will not ripen at all. To be sure of ripen- 
ing it must have protection, natural or artificial. Large quan- 
tities of Catawba grapes are annually sent to market, which 
are bought and eaten with relish by the mass of the citizens, 
who manage, in some way, to digest the unripened centre, 
nnd fancy that they like the acid and often acrid juice be- 
tween that centre and the skin ; but which are no more like 
the ripe, sweet, fragrant Catawbas of Kelley's Island, Pleas- 
ant Valley and Cincinnati, than the Bell Pear is like the 
Bartlett, or the penny orange of the huckster like the lux- 
urious Havanna. 



WHAT TO PLANT. 7 

It is therefore plain, that grape-culture could never become 
general, so long as we possessed these varieties alone ; and 
therefore grape-culture was confined to few individuals, and 
to particular locations, until the multiplication of seedlings 
and Hybrids, and new varieties, demonstrated to a certainty, 
that the United States must become in time a grape-growing 
country. 

That this result is sure to be attained, and that our grape 
interest must, in a short time, be second too no other interest 
in the country, in its pecuniary importance, must, we think, 
be clear to the mind of every reflecting individual : and, as 
the vine increases in productiveness, and the size and flavor 
of its fruit with age, it behoves every one to decide at once 
what variety he will plant, and how soon he will begin to 
plant it. 

We have seen a Catalogue of hardy native grapes amount- 
ing to 393 varieties. Of these, perhaps 50 may be worth 
cultivating — 20 may be very good, and worthy a place in ev- 
ery collection where variety and the gratification of horticul- 
tural taste is the object; and 10 of superior excellence, from 
which 5 or 6 might be selected as first class, and worthy and 
profitable for general cultivation. 

Perhaps the earliest, or as early as any on the list, is the 
Hartford Prolific. It has a large, rather compact bunch ; 
berry above medium size, round — skin thick and black — 
juicy, sweet, and with considerable of the native flavor, call- 
ed perfume by some, and is wonderfully productive. It is 
very hardy, will grow in almost any situation, and with very 
little care. It is said to improve wonderfully under proper 



8 OUB HARDY GRAPES. 

culture, and with systematic, close pruning, and is considered 
by many as a superior and profitable grape. 

We do not, however, think that it has much to recom- 
mend it, except its earliness and hardiness : and even in these 
it is so little superior to other varieties which have other 
excellencies, that it is scarcely to be cultivated, except for 
the sake of variety. 

The Concord is a grape ripening almost as early as the pre- 
ceding. It is a strong, vigorous grower, throwing out thick 
canes which extend a great distance, producing its fruit fully 
and plentifully, requiring but little care, yet amply repaying 
any extra care bestowed upon it. The berries and bunches 
are both very large, almost black, covered with a beautiful 
bloom. The flavor is much like the Isabella, a little more 
musky perhaps ; but this muskiness constantly decreasing 
with age and culture. The vine is healthy, not subject to 
mildew or rot, and one of the most certain to produce good 
results of any variety that we have. It is said to make good 
wine, but we scarcely think that possible in the neighbor- 
hood of New York, without the addition of sugar ; and in 
our estimation a mixture of fruit juices and cane sugar is not 
wine. We have tasted wine made from the Concord without 
the addition of sugar ; but it was thin, without body, and 
probably would not keep. Yet the Concord as a market 
grape, is probably among the best and most profitable that 
can be cultivated. It has been extensively disseminated, and 
will in all probability be planted more extensively than any 
other variety except the Delaware, for many years to come. 

The Delaware is a light red or wine colored grape, of 



WHAT TO PLANT. 9 

rapid but sTiort jointed growth, and a peculiar delicacy and 
richness of appearance, whicL. makes it one of tlie most at- 
tractive vines we are yet possessed of. Since its introduction 
it has been the theme of more controversy, and has called 
forth the expression of more variety of opinion, than any vine 
we have ever heard of. The first advocates and proprietors 
of the Delaware were so convinced of its great value, that 
they devoted nearly all their energies to propagating it and 
urging its sale, leaving the production of fine specimens of 
fruit out of the question ; being satisfied that this would 
speak for itself in proper time. Every thing in the shape of 
wood was used for propagation ; even green shoots were re- 
sorted to. The trimmings of the vines were estimated at a 
rate, which yielded a considerable income to those owning 
many of them. It was layered, raised from single eyes, 
raised in hot-beds, in the open air, root-grafted, layer-graft- 
ed, and multiplied in every way that it was possible to con- 
ceive. In this way it would be strange if the constitution of 
the vine did not deteriorate. Many plants were sent out not 
larger than a knitting needle, and so feeble that they would 
scarcely bear removing. In this way it was soon reputed to 
be a weak grower, and many were disgusted, and gave up 
trying to raise it. But it soon rallied, and has more than 
sustained its first reputation. 

The vines recently sent out have been of strong and vigo- 
rous habit, often making a growth of from 5 to 10 feet the 
first season ; and the second season nearly as vigorous, accord- 
ding to its habit, as the Concord. It has proved itself hardy 
under all circumstances ; from the frozen regions of Maine, to 



10 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

the burning hill-sides of Southern Ohio ; is, as a general thing, 
more healthy than most of its neighboring vines — can en- 
dure heat, cold, drought, wet, or any other circumstances 
which are usually so injurious to the grape grower's interest : 
and by all these qualities, with its earliness, productiveness^ 
and flavor, has become first in the list of American vines. 

Another objection urged to it, was that the berries were 
small. The first specimens of fruit were from young or un- 
cultivated vines, which gave but imperfect examples of fruit ; 
but it has been constantly increasing in size of berry and 
bunch, until it bids fair to rival other varieties. 

In the April number of the Horticulturist for 1863, is a 
portrait of a bunch of Delaware grapes, taken from the vine- 
yard of a distinguished vine-grower of Newburgh, which the 
Editor assures us is a fair sample, and an exact portrait. 
This bunch is about 6 inches long, 4 inches wide at its great- 
est breadth, and most of the berries at least half an inch in 
diameter. 

In flavor it is sweet, rich, sprightly and vinous, tender to 
the centre ; the bunch compact and shouldered ; and its pro- 
ductiveness, steady, regular and abundant. It is placed by 
most vine-growers at the head of American grapes; and gives 
promise of even more than it has already performed. 

The Diana is a seedling of the Catawba, and is second in 
flavour only to the Delaware. It resembles its parent in ap- 
pearance, is not quite as large ; of a roundish form, and a 
lively reddish color. It is earlier and hardier than the Ca- 
tawba ; more vigorous, of sprightlier flavour than the Cataw- 
ba is found here ; and altogether a most desirable variety. 



WHATTOPLANT. 11 

The above four varieties are perhaps best suited for geueral 
and vineyard culture ; and can be relied upon as hardy, pro- 
ductive, and profitable grapes. 

The Creveling or Catawissa is much prized in some local- 
ities, and resembles closely the Isabella, except that it is 
earlier. 

The Union Village, said to be a seedling of the Isabella, 
originated by the Shakers of Union Village, Ohio — resem- 
bles the Isabella in quality, but is much larger, both in bunch 
and berry. The flavour is sweet and delicate, and it ripens 
some time before the Isabella. The growth is very large 
both in cane and lea^ and it is a very superior variety. But 
it is slightly tender, requiring the protection of a wall or side 
of a house, in order to insure its safe wintering. 

The Anna was claimed on its introduction some ten years 
since, to have supplied the want long felt of a good white 
grape. It originated in the garden of Mr. Eli Hasbrouck at 
Newburgh, and first bore fruit in 1851. It is a beautiful 
white grape, varying from light ambre, to green or pearly 
white ; and has a sweet, rich, vinous flavor, somewhat spicy, 
with a little toughness at its centre, in the fruit of young 
vines, but which is said to disappear as the vine increases in 
age. It is a hardy and vigorous grower, much resembling 
the Catawba in leaf and stem, and ripens generally from the 
first to the middle or end of October. It is however urged 
against it, that it ripens late, and it will probably only arrive 
to perfection at the first period mentioned, under favorable 
circumstances. It was for a long time recommended as the 



12 OURHARDYGRAPES. 

best white grape, and undoubtedly possesses merits wbicb 
entitle it to favorable attention. 

The Rebecca is another white grape of much beauty, and 
great delicacy of flavour ; but is deficient in healthy foliage, 
and has not succeeded, except in most favorable localities. It 
cannot be relied upon, and therefore the prudent vine-grower 
will not devote much time, or money, or space to its culti- 
vation. 

Allen's Hybrid raised by Mr. J. Fisk Allen, of Salem, Mass. 
is a Hybrid, or cross between a foreign variety and the Isa- 
bella. It is a white grape which has been highly praised, 
and after several years of testing, is said to be hardy and 
vigorous. Berries large, green Amber color ; flavor rich, 
vinous and delicious; bunch large, and said to retain the 
fruit without dropping to the last. It promises, as far as 
known, to be one of our best grapes, both for vineyard or 
table, second only to the Delaware. 

Roger's Hybrids of the same class, of which some 12 or 
more varieties are before the public, are produced by crossing 
the Mammoth or wild grape of New England, with the for- 
eign varieties, Black Hamburgh and Chasselas. They are 
said to possess the hardihood, vigor, and early bearing prop- 
erties of the native, with the richness of flavor, productive- 
ness, &c. of the foreign. They are of difl'erent sizes and 
colors, and promise to be, many of them, everything that can 
be desired ; but as yet are too little known to be recommend- 
ed for general cultivation. 

Cuyhoga is also a white grape, highly spoken of, recom- 



WHATTOPLANT. 13 

mended for delicious flavor, vigor, &c. but is as yet but lit- 
tle known. 

Maxatawncy is also a white grape, new ; said to be good, 
but late. 

To-Kalon has been named for its beautiful appearance, and 
has a large berry, blueish black, with bloom, sweet delicate 
flavour. It ripens about the middle of September ; but is 
said sometimes to fail to set, and drop its berries badly. 

The Herbemont is a vine of an entirely diff"erent class. 
Tender, requiring protection or laying down in winter until 
it attains the age of three or four years ; and also to have its 
shoots " stopped" or pinched in, in order to insure ripening of 
the wood. It is a beautiful vine in vigor of growth, and its 
fruit is very attractive. The berries are small, but the bunch 
very large, often doubly shouldered ; color dark blue, sweet, 
spicy, juicy and vinous. 

Elsingburg. This is a variety somewhat resembling the 
Herbemont in berry and bunch, but if anything smaller. It 
is a black grape, with a slightly blueish appearance ; the 
bunches often very long, and shouldered, and of a rich suga- 
ry, vinous flavor. It is hardy and healthy, but not as uni- 
formly productive as some. Is earlier than Isabella ; but is 
objectionable on account of the size of its berries, which are 
much below medium size. It is, however, a good variety 
for a garden collection ; and its tender berry and rich fla- 
vor wnll afford peculiar gratification to the lovers of fine 
fruit. It is said to have originated in Salem county, New 
Jersey. 

Lincoln and Lenoir very closely resemble each other, and 



14 OURHAEDYGRAPES. 

scarcely present sufficient distinct characteristics to render 
them desirable. 

York Madeira is a grape which has been widely dissem- 
inated under various names, such as Canby's August, Hyde's 
Eliza, Shepherd's Port-wine Grape, Baldwin's Early, Schuyl- 
kill Muscadel, Cape Grape, &c. It is a very sweet grape, but 
yields but little juice, and is earlier than the Isabella. It will 
make good wine, and has been cultivated at the west for tbat 
purpose ; but is not profitable on account of its want of 
luice. 

Clinton has a small compact bunch, shouldered, small 
round berry, and produces great and regular crops. It is 
very hardy, will grow anywhere, and is very handsome to 
look upon ; but in our opinion hardly fit to eat. It is said to 
improve, however, by keeping, and to be better after a slight 
frost. But we should hardly put it in a place which might 
be occupied by a better vine, 

Marion and Oporto are wine grapes, largely advertised as 
such ; but are not fit for the table — except for those who are 
not over particular about what they eat, or over fastidious as 
regards flavour. We would advise to leave them out, except 
cultivated exclusively for wine, in which capacity they are far 
inferior to many other varieties. 

lona is a new seedling variety, introduced the present sea- 
son by Dr. C. W. Grant, of lona Island. Those who have 
seen and tasted it, speak in high terms of its excellence and 
flavor. We know nothing of it personally, and therefore 
append Dr. Grant's description in his own words. Speaking 
of the lona and Israella, his two new seedlings, he saj's : 



WHATTOPLANT. ' 15 

" One named tbe Iona bears a large buncli, witli large ber- 
ries ; is of a very peculiar wine color, with few and very- 
small seeds, and is of uniform consistency throughout its 
flesh, from outside to centre, and more nearly resembles the 
Red Frontignan (foreign) than any other grape. It is trans- 
parent, fleshy, and tender, like the Frontignan, and is even 
more spirited and vinous in its flavor, and makes more spir- 
ited raisins. It does not decay, but may be kept all winter 
on the shelves in the fruit room, adhering firmly to the 
bunch, and drying readily to raisins." 

" It is an early and profuse bearer, never having failed to 
ripen a full crop ; and has never been afflicted with rot, or 
unhealthiness. It bore and ripened a great number of 
bunches the third season from the seed." 

"The habit of the vine is the very best ; and I would not 
know in what respect to ask to have it altered, to make it 
more valuable." 

" Season of ripening fully two weeks before the Isabella. 
By flowering late, it avoids danger from spring frosts." 

" The IsRAELLA is a large black grape, that ripens one 
week before the lona, and like it, is a very late keeper, hold- 
ing firmly to the bunch ; aud when fully ripe becoming quite 
sweet to the centre. It is very rich, sugary, and vinous, with 
a very excellent and peculiar flavor." 

" The vine is very healthy in its foliage, hardy and pro- 
ductive, and bears early. Plants but one year old are now 
ripening from four to six large bunches each." 

Montgomery Grape. There has been exhibited at the dif- 
ferent fairs, this autumn, more particularly at the American 



16 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

Institute Fair, a medium sized, pale green grape, of tlie above 
name. The berry is very beautiful, and the bunches very 
long, compact, and shouldered. It has every appearance of 
a foreign grape ; but we are assured that in Dutchess Coun- 
ty, and that neighbrohood, it flourishes in the open air. It's 
flavor, as far as we have tasted, is pleasant, sweet and vi- 
nous ; and the flesh solid, like a foreign grape. It resembles 
the Chasselas, and is probably a seedling of that variety; but 
as yet too little known, and too limited in its area of cultiva- 
tion, to warrant a definite opinion as to its merits or adapta- 
bility to our climate. 

There are many other varieties undoubtedly worthy of cul- 
tivation, but as yet confined to particular localities. AVe 
consider that the above varieties furnish everything that can 
be desired in a grape, so far as their qualities are known ; 
and as far as we have progressed in cultivating and propaga- 
ting this kind of fruit. New varieties may be brought for- 
ward superior to those we already have ; but thus far any 
reasonable taste may be gratified, or ordinary market demand 
supplied, by selection from the above list : and we would re- 
commend those interested to rely in large planting, upon well- 
tried and established varieties, rather than upon those not 
yet proved, and more suited to the amateur, than the profes- 
sional culturist. Those who are curious, can learn much 
from the advertisements and notices in difi'erent publications,^ 
making all due allowances for interested testimony, and con- 
flicting statements. 



CHAPTER II. 

WHEKE TO PLANT — HOW TO PLANT. 

The next question is tlie choice of situation of the Vine- 
yard, the kind of soil, the preparation of the ground, and 
the time and manner of planting. 

There is one thing requisite to the obtaining good results 
from any vine or vineyard, and that is sunshine. Without this 
for a good portion of the day, all other conditions of success 
will be found to be of no avail. Good grapes have been pro- 
duced in orchards, or other situations partially shaded by 
trees ; but tbey have been comparatively poor crops, and not 
equal in quality to those grown in the full sunlight. Occa- 
sionally a vine growing upon an arbour, partially in shadow, 
for a good portion of the day, may produce fruit, owing to 
richness of border or other favorable circumstances ; but this 
is the exception, rather than the rule ; and it will be found 
that the vines invariably push to the ligbt as those do, grow- 
ing in their native forest, and produce their best fruit at the 
extremities. 

So, also, with exposure. A perfectly level piece of land, 
with the clear sun-light upon it, unobstructed by any object, 
will make a first-class vineyard. So, also, the western, or 
even northern sides of hills, gently inclined, will produce fair 

2* 



18 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

crops of Delaware, Concord, Diana, Hartford, Prolific, &c. or 
other hardy varieties, under careful culture : but such land 
had much better be applied to other purposes, appropriating 
the more favorable situations to the culture which will pro- 
duce the best and most profitable results. 

An inclination of an inch to the foot, to the south or 
south-east, will be found almost equal to a degree of lat- 
itude ; and these southern and eastern exposures are plenti- 
ful in all the country in the neighborhood of New York. 
Thousands and thousands of acres on the Hudson, in Con- 
necticut, New Jersey in- the eastern counties, and which are 
now devoted to pasture ; under even moderate culture, would 
yield a ten-fold return in grape culture. Even steep hill- 
sides, inclining to the south or east, can be easily made into 
vineyards ; and, with the abundance of muck and other 
fertilizers, can be made profitable. 

Soil is the next consideration. Any soil of moderate fer- 
tility, which is not wet or heavy, or subject to standing water, 
can grow the grape. It had better be too light and too 
sandy, than too wet ; and it is very necessary that the drain- 
age should be perfect. If it is not so, underdraining must 
be resorted to, and drains put down three feet below the sur- 
face to carry off the surplus moisture. We have seen vines 
growing in soil which seemed so light that it would scarcely 
raise grass ; and the best of vines, in a sandy loam of dark 
color, filled with round stones, from the size of a pea to that 
of an egg. This soil had been deeply worked, and moder- 
ately enriched, to the degree of good garden fertility. 

As a general rule, any soil which will grow corn, or pota- 



HOW TO PLANT. 19 

toes, or wheat, or even rye, will grow grapes. The grape is 
a gross feeder, sending its rootlings far and wide, and is not 
over-particular upon what it feeds. Its main requisite is a 
good deep soil, with a porous subsoil, and an exposure not 
subject to violent winds or sudden changes of temperature. 
This is one reason why the vicinity of large bodies of water, 
which always exerts an influence upon the atmosphere, is so 
beneficial and favorable ; the best vineyards in the United 
States being in the neighborhood of water. 

A good garden soil, which has been trenched to the depth 
of two feet, or even deeper, presents the best condition for 
cultivating the grape. We do not believe in acrid, recent 
manures ; nor do we believe in special fertilizers, particular- 
ly adapted, as stated by their proprietors, to make wood or 
fruit, grow. If your ground must be enriched, let it be by 
good, well-rotted barnyard compost. Nothing better than 
muck, composted with the refuse of the stables, liquid and 
solid, straw, &c. all well fermented and decomposed, and 
mixed in moderate proportion with the soil — and then soil 
and all thoroughly worked, so as to present a homogenous 
mass, finely pulverized, and of even consistence, to the requi- 
site depth. There can be no border or garden bed better 
than this, unless it be made so by deeper working, which, 
where expense is no object, may be carried to three feet, and 
then, exposure and other things being right, and the vine 
properly planted, the best and most permanent results possi- 
ble may be looked for and confidently expected. 

For planting on a large scale, the ground should be 
thoroughly ploughed in the latter part of September, or 



20 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

first of October, earlier if practicable ; and if sod ground, 
the sods may be allowed to lay and rot for three or four 
weeks without any molestation. If not sod ground, we 
would trench plough at once ; that is, would plough twice in 
the same furrow, with a person to hold on to the beam in 
order to make the furrows as deep as possible. A good 
plough for this purpose is one made with a shifting or re- 
volving mould-board, commonly called a side-hill plough, 
and which leaves no dead furrows. Should the subsoil turn 
up yellow in appearance and barren, it will be necessary to 
add fertilizers to it before the next operation. This fertiliza- 
tion may be accomplished by the addition of the mixture 
above mentioned ; that is, good stable manure composted 
with muck, or with the product of the general compost heap 
of refuse matter, which should exist on every farm and coun- 
try place. Good top soil may also be taken from another 
field, and carted upon the one in preparation, or decom- 
posed sods, than which nothing is better ; or any other sub- 
stance which will add decomposed vegetable or animal mat- 
ter to the soil. 

The next operation may take place in November or De- 
cember, immediately before the approach of severe frost ; 
and may consist of cross-ploughing if practicable, in all re- 
spects like the former ; except that we would recommend the 
employment of extra hands to follow the plough with shov- 
els, and throw out the earth loosened by it, in order to ob- 
tain greater depth. The plough may also be passed a third 
time through the furrow if necessary. If by these means a 
thorough working, to the depth of twenty or twenty-four 



HOW TO PLANT. 21 

inches has been accomplished, and the soil be made by 
proper additions of sufficient fertilizers, the preparation may- 
be considered sufficient, and the ground be allowed to rest 
for the winter, in its rough state, so as to be acted upon and 
pulverised by the frost, preparatory to its being planted in 
the spring. 

It may appear to some that this preparation of the vine- 
yard is rather elaborate, and involves more trouble and ex- 
pense than is necessary. But there is not as much trouble 
in it as would appear from description ; and a person who is 
making preparation for a work which is to last for several 
generations, certainly ought not to regret a few extra days or 
dollars expended upon its foundation. 

As we have said before, grapes will grow under almost any 
circumstances ; but good grapes can only be grown by fol- 
lowing out the imperative laws which govern their pro- 
duction. A vine which is to last for 50 or 100 years must 
have a sufficient amount of nourishment laid up, and suffi- 
cient room for its roots to answer the demands of its healthy 
and permanent developement. 

It will also be seen that we only contemplate spring plant- 
ing. In vineyard culture we should never think of planting 
at any other time than in the spring ; not only on account 
of the previous preparation of the ground, but also on ac- 
count of giving the transplanted vines a good start, before 
exposing them to the rigors of winter. In the garden, a 
single vine, or a few vines may be planted in the fall, because 
then the ground is always supposed to be at least partially 
prepared; and a few vines can be properly protected in their 



22 OURHARDYGRAPES. 

places from the frosts of their first winter, and be ready to be 
uncovered and take an early start in the spring, without 
having suffered from being compelled to enter upon their 
new state of existence during a dormant and frozen season. 

Nor would we, if possible, select or purchase vines at any 
time, except the autumn. We certainly think that the poor- 
est vines are sent out in the spring ; and they most always 
come too late, and are injured in transportation and setting. 
We would order the vines, by all means, in August or Sep- 
tember, and manage and take care of them through the 
winter as hereafter directed. The ground being prepared 
the autumn previous, and having lain in the condition just 
described, during the winter, will be ready for planting as 
soon as the severe weather is over, and the frost sufficiently 
out to permit working. An iron tooth harrow should then 
be passed over the surface, properly loaded, if necessary, un- 
til the surface is made smooth and even, and the lumps, if 
any remain from the winter's freezing, well broken. The 
rows may then be staked out, and preparation made for 
planting. These rows should, if the nature of the ground 
permit, run east and west, as we believe that position will 
give more sunshine, and shade less space, upon ground, level, 
or nearly so, than any other direction in which they can be 
placed. Should the ground incline much in any direction, 
the rows should run at right angles to the slope of the 
ground ; or, in other words, directly across its face, in what- 
ever direction the inclination may be. 

There is considerable difference of opinion as to the dis- 
tance of vine planting ; but we believe all agree that the 



HOWTOPLANT. 23 

rows should be at least six feet apart, in order to insure suf- 
ficient light and air, and room for working. The distance in 
the rows varies according to the practice of different parties. 
Mr. Mottier, of Cincinnati, plants his Delaware vines, we be- 
lieve, three feet apart in the row. Dr. Grant advocates from 
two to four feet. Dr. Underbill, of Groton Point, whose vines 
are Catawba and Isabella, about eight feet — the vine-growers 
of Nyack and other places, with Catawba, Isabella, Concord, 
Hartford, Prolific, &c. seven to ten feet : which last distance 
we much prefer for strong, growing vines. Indeed the Con- 
cord will easily cover a space of twice that distance, and 
produce good fruit ; while the Delaware may be restricted 
to narrower bounds. But with our experience of its ramp- 
ant growth, we should much prefer to give it at least ten 
feet. 

The argument is, that a greater number of vines to the 
acre, the vines being set closer, will give more fruit, and of 
better quality, than to set fewer vines, and farther apart. 
"We do not believe that the close system of planting, and 
which involves also close pruning, will answer in our Amer- 
ican climate, with the luxurious growth which it induces ; as 
we have found that the vine will extend its shoots ; and it 
is almost impossible, with pinching and summer pruning, to 
keep it within bounds. 

Should the distance of ten feet be decided upon, the first 
vine in the row should be set five feet from the place of the 
first trellis-post : that is, the trellis-post at the end of the 
row, the vine five feet fi'om the post ; then another vine ten 
feet from the first vine, and so on to the end of the row 



24 OUR HAKDY GRAPES. 

The trellis-posts we would not put out until the second or 
third spring from planting. 

Proceed, then, after having fixed the rows and distances, 
to dig a hole three feet square and two feet deep for each 
vine, throwing up the earth out of the hole, and making a 
neat heap of it by the side — preferably the north side — to 
afford protection to the young vine. Then fill the hole, 
moderately compact, to within about six or eight inches of 
the top, leaving the residue of the earth in a neat conical 
heap, as before directed. Upon the surface of the hole, six 
or eight inches below the surface of the vineyard, the vine is 
to be planted, and this sunken surface treated, for the first 
season, precisely as if it were the surface of the field. Be- 
fore planting, and after the surface is prepared ready for the 
reception of the vine, each vine must be staked with a stake 
of any suitable material, than which nothing is better than 
a bean-pole of cedar or chestnut, or other good wood. As 
these stakes may require to stand two years, it is best to put 
in good stakes, and to do it thoroughly at first. Do not 
plant the vines first, and then stake afterward, as in that 
case you will disturb your vines : besides, in all probability, 
getting your rows crooked : but set your stakes by a line, and 
then proceed to set your vines to the stakes. 

This important operation must be performed with care, 
not hurriedly, but giving its due attention to each individu- 
al vine and root, and seeing that every one is in its proper 
place. Set your vines at the right depth, about three or four 
inches deep, according to size ; or at as nearly as possible the 
exact depth at which it formerly grew. 



HOWTOPLANT. 25 

Taking your vines from the trench in which they have 
been kept during the winter, they having been root and top 
pruned the fall previous, as described in the Article on heeling 
in and keeping through winter, (for which see page 56,) have 
ready a large basket, with some fine straw, or hay, or moss, 
properly moistened, and take out no more at a time from the 
trench than you can conveniently protect in the basket with 
wet straw or moss, as the roots of the vines should not be ex- 
posed to cold air, or drying winds, or sunshine, for an instant 
more than necessary: then, having arranged your basket, 
take it to your row of holes — take out a vine, cover up the 
rest ; and, getting down to your work, having previously 
made a slight excavation with your spade, set your vine with 
your hands, (there is no other way to do it,) and take each 
root by itself, and see that it is properly packed with earth ; 
the roots being properly spread out in the right direction, so 
that no one root thall touch its neighbor. Be careful, also, 
to see that the crown, or hollow underneath the stem, from 
which the roots diverge, is properly packed, or filled with 
earth ; as, unless this is done, the vine there, may generate 
mould, which would injure its health. All this work must be 
done with the hands and fingers, and the earth gently press- 
ed or beaten with the hand, so as to give it moderate com- 
pactness, but not too tight. It is best, also, in some in- 
stances, to have at hand a basket of good fine garden mould, 
not manure, to put next the roots, where the ground is not 
as finely prepared as it should be ; but when it is well pre- 
pared this is unnecessary. 

Having faithfully set your vine as above directed, carefully 
3 



26 OUR HARDY GKAPES. 

cover to proper depth, that is natural depth, and smooth the 
surface with the hand, using your fingers as a rake, until the 
surface is level, and the process completed. Then tie your 
vine to the stake with a piece of soft twine, so loose as by no 
possibility to cut it while growing ; and proceed to the next 
vine, and so on, until your basket is empty. 

We regard this method of planting beneath the surface, 
as far better than any system yet adopted ; not only tending 
to keep the vine from the effects of drought, the first season, 
but enabling it to form good and strong well ripened roots 
near the temporary surface, which afterwards, by the process 
of filling up the hole, become deep soil roots, and give the 
vine a vigor and permanency, not to be acquired in any other 
way, so rapidly and so easily. In the autumn, before the 
heavy frosts, these holes are to be filled with the earth which 
has been reserved in a little heap by each, and the surface 
rounded so as not to retain rains or surface water, but protect 
the roots, and keep them in good healthy condition, free 
from the injurious ejffects of freezing and thawing during the 
winter. 

The treatment of these vines, during the first season, is as 
follows. Taking it for granted that they have been pruned, 
or cut back to the third or fourth bud from the root the fall 
previous, as directed on page 66 the object, the first season, 
will be to produce a single cane of strong healthy growth. 
The three buds le-ft upon the vine, if uninjured, will each 
shoot forth with the warm air and influence of spring. 
When they have grown from one half to one inch in length, 
select the strongest one, and rub or break out the other ones. 



HOW TO PLANT. 27 

Keep this single slioot, which should grow very rapidly, tied 
up stiaight, so that it will never bend down, and give it con- 
stant attention during the growing season. 

An hour or more spent in the vineyard every morning, 
will keep every vine in its place, beget a habit of neatness, 
and a love for this generous gift of Providence, which will 
grow stronger with age, and delight more and more as it 
progresses. The careful vine-grower, with a quantity of ties 
strung through a button-hole or secured by his belt, cut to 
proper length, ready for use, glides carefully and rapidly 
through his well tendered grounds, with his quick eye noting 
every change from one day to another, and his careful hand 
helping any aspiring shoot in its upward ascent. By and by 
the laterals, or small side branches, will shoot from the union 
of the leaves, with the upright shoot, and as these are but so 
many robbers, they must all be nipped by pinching the end, 
after they have made one leaf. After once nipping they will 
start again, and having made another leaf, must be pinched 
again, in order that all the strength may go to form the 
straight upright shoot or cane, which must be kept constantly 
and carefully tied up until the first of September, when its 
extremity may be also nipped to check its fiirther growth, 
and the vine left to mature its wood, preparatory to its win- 
ter's rest. 

After the leaves have fallen and the cold weather ap- 
proaching, say in the latter part of October, or first of No- 
vember, the vines may be prepared for winter, by carefully 
filling in the heap of earth which had been reserved by the 
side of each vine, as before directed, and gently rounding it 



28 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

up, so that no water can stand or freeze around the vine, dur- 
ing the winter. There is nothing which will injure your 
vine so much as this freezing and thawing around your vine 
during the cold season ; and a slight elevation to each vine 
will entirely prevent this, and give the young surface roots, 
which have formed during the summer, the requisite winter 
protection. Should any of the vines appear feeble, which 
will not likely be the case, if the former directions have been 
well carried out, a portion of this earth may be removed in 
the month of April following ; but in most cases it will be 
better to leave it, only clearing the surface dressing the next 
spring, giving it a slight depression near the centre, so as to 
rather encourage the absorption of the summer rains. Yet 
this depression or hollow should be very slight, a superabund- 
ance of moisture being more injurious to young vines than 
too little wet, and most seasons giving a sufficient supply, 
without resorting to any artificial means, except careful and 
frequent working of the ground to retain it. 

I have said nothing in this Article about mulching the sur- 
face of the ground, so much spoken of and insisted upon by 
many writers. In carefully prepared ground as herein direct- 
ed, and particularly with the method of planting below the 
surface, it is not generally necessary, unless much dry weath- 
er should intervene ; as the winds of spring, which so soon 
dry the surface of the exposed ground, will pass over these 
sunken plots, leaving them with their natural moisture une- 
evaporated, and the top always in good moist condition. 
Should, however, much drought come on with the summer, 
a slight mulch may be resorted to. As your sunken plot ia 



HOWTOPLANT. 29 

three feet square, this space may be covered to the depth of 
about three-fourths of an inch, with clean hay or well broken 
straw ; but never with green grass, or any fermenting mate- 
rial. This hay or straw may be spread evenly and lightly, 
occasionally being removed to work the surface beneath it, 
and then replaced. Used in this way it will be beneficial in 
very dry seasons ; but, as we have before said, during ordi- 
nary seasons, and in ground properly worked and planted, is 
unnecessary. 

While preparing the vines for winter, during the season 
above mentioned, it will be best to prune them, which will 
consist simply in cutting back each cane to about the third 
bud of the season's growth ; or, should it be very short joint- 
ed, and the cane be suflSciently stout, it may be cut at about 
two feet from the ground. The reason for this will be seen 
when we come to speak of training and pruning more in de- 
tail, and according to a regular system. 

If one-year-old vines were planted, and the vine is yet slen- 
der, it must be grown another year to a single cane, and in 
that case can be cut back to two buds ; but if the vines were 
of good thickness, and have made a vigorous growth, the 
proper distance or hight may now be determined for the 
arms, and the vine cut at about two feet from the ground, 
about one inch above the upper bud, as before directed. 

This filling up the holes and pruning, with the proper in- 
spection of the stakes and ties, and clearing away the rub- 
bish, concludes the first year's operations in the young 
vineyard. 



3* 



CHAPTER III. 

MODE OF CULTURE AND TRATNINa. 

The operations of the second year will consist principally 
in keeping the ground free from 'weeds by the use of horse 
and hand hoe, and iron tooth harrow. Should weeds and 
grass spring up in great abundance, a light plowing may be 
resorted to ; but not too near the young vines. If this is 
done, it must be done very cautiously, as the injury or break- 
ing of a vine this year may be productive of considerable 
damage to its usefulness, and certainly will injure its symetry 
and beauty. 

The tying up this year must be conducted with even more 
care and attention than that bestowed last year, as the growth 
will be more rapid, and the vines need closer watching. Prep- 
aration must also be made this year, and the foundation laid 
for the permanent form and training of the vine ; about which 
there is a diflference of taste in different individuals, and also 
a difference of opinion as to which is productive of best re- 
sults. For our own part we prefer the arm system, which 
consists in the division of the head of the vine into two 
branches or arms, not far from the ground, which arms are 
secured upon a wire or strip running horizontally upon the 



CULTURE AND TRAINING. 31 

trellis posts, and produce fruit upon wood of the same season's 
growth, which wood springs from the bud or eye of the pre- 
vious year, and is trained upright, and close to the trellis. 
This takes up but little room, and allows the freest circula- 
tion of air and light. This system we shall now endeavor, as 
clearly as possible, to describe. 

"We have directed in the previous chapter the vine to be 
grown to a single upright cane, [Fig. 1] ; and ordinary vines 
of one year old ought to make a growth of four or five feet, 
the first season : yet many do not do as well as this, and 
many make a growth of only, perhaps, two feet, and yet turn 
out good vines : so the planter must not be discouraged, even 
if his vines do grow but little the first year, provided they 
look healthy. 

If the vine should be of very feeble, or even morderate 
growth, it will be best, at the trimming season, to cut it back 
to about an inch of the second eye of the last year's growth. 
Have a keen knife, and, steadying the vine with your left 
hand, so as not to disturb its roots, make a clean, quick cut 
with your right, being careful that the slope of your cut is 
not in such a direction as to throw the water on the next bud ; 
that is, the top of the slope should be on the same side as the 
bud, and the bottom of the slope on the side opposite to the 
bud. 

Your vine must now be treated exactly as it was the first 
season, growing a strong, single upright cane, which 'must be 
carefully tied up, and treated precisely as before directed ; 
and pruned in this autumn of the second year precisely as 
next directed. 



32 



Fig. 1. 




TRAINING. 33 

Indeed, it is very rare that one year old vines are in a 
proper state to prepare to take tlieir arms the next year after 
planting. It is only those of extra vigorous growth, and 
vines which were two years old when planted, that are gen- 
erally stout enough to prepare for this process the second 
season. 

Supposing, then, that your canes in the autumn are strong 
and healthy, at least 3-8th of an inch in diameter ; you cut 
them back to about an inch above the third bud of last sea- 
son's growth, observing the same direction as to the slope of 
the cut as before, endeavoring to have this bud about two feet 
from the ground, or if it is not, trimming to two buds as near 
that distance as you can get them, and the spring following, 
allowing two shoots to grow from two buds, rubbing out the 
rest, and keeping these shoots carefully tied up as before, [see 
Fig. 2.] You may use this season, the same stake as before, 
only nailing on it two lath, or other stuff, steadied by a cross 
piece at the top, as shown in Fig. 2, and your cane tied to 
those as before. Pinch in your laterals as directed for the 
first season, and should your vines reach the tops of the lath 
or stakes before the end of the growing season, it will be easy 
to tack on an additional piece to give them greater height. 
Many contrivances may be arranged to give the vines tempo- 
rary support ; where the materials have to be purchased, lath 
are about as good and cheap as anything, or the farm may 
furnish the material in the shape of willow or other twigs, or 
split hemlock, or oak, or chestnut. A person with a little ex- 
ercise of ingenuity, can easily keep his vines in proper order 



34 



Fig. 2. 




TRAINING. 35 

until they are of suflBcient developement to warrant and re- 
quire the setting of permanant posts and trellis. 

These canes being carefully grown and laterals pinched in 
during the summer, at the autumn pruning, are to be cut to 
within two or three feet of the main stock — see dotted lines 
[Fig. 2,] and then secured to their temporary support for the 
winter. 

The following spring the vine will require a permanent 
support, in the shape of a trellis, of which there are various 
kinds. The one longest in use is made by setting posts, 
chestnut, or cedar, or locust, from 8 to 9 feet long, firmly in 
the ground, one post equi-distant, or in the centre between 
each of the vines. Thus, the vines being ten feet apart, will 
make the first post five feet outside of the first vine, the next 
post between the first and second vines, ten feet from the 
first post, and so on to the end of the row. The old way 
was to stretch wires on these posts, the first wire about two 
feet from the ground, another wire at the top of the posts, 
and a wire equi-distant from the top and bottom wire. This 
makes a servicable trellis under the old system of training ; 
but we think a much better one is made by nailing a hori- 
zontal strip of wood two feet from the ground, on these posts, 
and another Hke strip, at the top of the posts. These strips 
are connected by other strips of wood, upright like a picket 
fence, to correspond with the shoots from the vines, which 
are fastened to the lower strip as hereafter directed ; or wires 
may be used in the place of strips, which is probably better 
still ; to which the upright shoots may be tied as they grow, 
as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. This is one of the neatest and 



36 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

cheapest trellises that can be made, the wire being small, and 
the strips of spruce, or hemlock, or any other cheap material. 
Vines tied to these trellises are firm, and not liable to slip, 
or to be swayed or broken by the wind, and the trellis-posts 
are not likely to get out of place, being made firm by the 
strips. 

The best time to build the trellis is early in the, spring, as 
soon as the ground can be worked, when your buds are dor- 
mant, and not likely to be rubbed by handling the vines. 
Untie your vines from the stakes, lay them carefully out of 
the way, and then set your posts, and put on your strips or 
wires. The posts may have the foot charred, or coated with 
tar ; or Kyanised by soaking in a chemical solution ; or wet 
with oil of vitriol. Either process will add to their durabil- 
ity ; but we much prefer the taring or charing to any other 
process. Good sound posts will last a long while without any 
preparation ; but some of these processes may be resorted to, 
where the greatest permanency is desirable. 

Having set your posts, and nailed on your bottom strips, 
tie up your vines loosely and lightly to the rail, or strip, and 
leave them in this position till about the first week in May, 
when they should be bent in the position described in Fig. 3, 
and firmly tied with strong, but soft twine, so as to keep them 
in their place. Bend them carefully, and be sure not to 
break or rub out any buds in doing so. They will crack and 
snap a little in the bending ; but you will soon get such exr? 
perience that you will not mind this, as, at this season to 
which we have advised you to leave them before bending, 



37 



Fig. 3. 




^t^ 



38 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

tlie sap is in the cane, and it will bend almost like whale- 
bone. 

Having bent and secured them to the bottom rail, you may 
proceed to affix a wire or slat to each shoot, or rather bud, 
where a shoot is to be, as shown in Fig. 3. 

We have directed the arms to be bent crosswise ; that is, 
each arm to be bent to the opposite side from which it grew. 
The object in this is to retard the flow, or rush of the sap to 
the extremities, and strengthen the buds, near the trunk or 
centre. We believe that this has a beneficial efi'ect, in pro- 
ducing strong, healthy shoots near the centre of the vine, 
and thus tending to equalize the vine ; as, in ordinary cases, 
the shoots which spring from the buds nearest the end of the 
arm, are the strongest. We also like the appearance of vines 
thus trained, the best, and there is nQ/ danger of their split- 
ting; so that, upon the whole, we think crossing them is pref- 
erable. 

They may be bent straight, however; that is, each shoot 
bent down on the side on which it grew ; making a straight 
head in the form of a T — and many vines are trained in this 
manner. 

Having tied the arms down to the lower strip, the wires 
or slats may be affixed as above directed ; being careful not 
to get them too close to each other. Should the buds on 
your arms be less than six inches apart, which they will be, 
on the Delaware and other short jointed varieties, you must 
not allow more than every other one to grow, and produce 
a shoot, rubbing out the extra buds, and managing them so 
as to have your shoots, or upright canes, at least six inches 



HOW TO TRAIN. 89 

apart ; and eight or ten, or even twelve inches will be still 
better, so as to give plenty of room, as your vine increases 
in age and growth. 

As these shoots grow, they must be kept tied up to the 
upright wires or slats, as you have practiced in former years, 
and the strong laterals pinched in as before, only you need 
not be quite so particular to keep them close. 

You will probably get your first specimens of fruit from 
these upright shoots this season ; and you must steadily re- 
sist the temptation to let them overbear. Upon no account 
allow more than one bunch to each shoot, and this will be a 
heavy crop for so young a vine. But if your vines are 
healthy, and have been treated exactly as before directed, 
they may produce thus much this season, uninjured. But 
if you have any doubts as to this, then with an unsparing 
hand, no matter what your friends may say, thin them out, 
and pull off the bunches, so as to leave but about half the 
quantity above specified. These shoots may grow as in Fig. 
4, to the top of the trellis, when they should be stopped on 
the approach of autumn. 

You will observe, by looking at the end shoots on Fig. 4, 
that they are not trained up straight like the others, but car- 
ried off in a sloping direction. These end shoots are to form 
the extension of the arms, and, at the autumnal pruning, are 
to be cut back to one or two feet, as the case may be ; and, in 
the following spring, tied down horizontally, so as to form a 
direct extension of the arms ; aud shoots are to be trained 
up from their buds, exactly as directed for the training of 
shoots from the arms of last year. 



HOWTOTRAIN. 41 

In the latter part of June of this year, as you may on vines 
of any age, you should go over your vines, and with a sharp 
knife, cut away any projection which may exist, where the 
new wood joins the old, or where one growth joins another, 
so as to make every thing smooth and clean. One of these 
projections will be found at the end of each arm, where the 
shoot springs from the arm, and another, if it has not been 
smoothed before, where the arm joins the upright stock. 

This is a good time of the year, also, to perform any minor 
operation of pruning, which may have been overlooked in 
the regular pruning, as the wood at this season heals rapidly, 
and the vine may be cut in any shape you may choose, pro- 
vided you do not take ofif any amount of foliage, which 
"would be injurious. 

Your vineyard may now be considered as established, and 
as brought to a state where it will begin to give you some 
return for previous labor and care. You will by this time 
suflBciently understand and appreciate your vines, if you have 
not been familiar with them before, to watch them carefully, 
to guard against insects, to take off superfluous shoots, and to 
keep every thing neat, and trim, and thrifty. Do not allow 
much tramping on the ground in your vineyard, but keep 
your ground light, and the surface loose and free from weeds 
and grass : and, if any extra fertilization seems necessary, 
give a light top-dressing of well-rotted manure, or bone-dust, 
or ashes, or a compost made of all these together, annual- 
ly, in the fall or early spring, but not during the growing 
season. 

Your pruning next year will consist in cutting all the 



42 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

slaoots of last year's growth, except the end shoots, which 
are to form the extension of the arms, as before directed, 
back to the second bud, unless some one should be very- 
weak ; and then it is to be cut to the first bud. The vine 
pruned, and the arms ready to be tied down, as shown in 
Fig. 5. 

This cutting back is to be repeated on each succeeding year, 
by cutting back the last year's growth to the first or second 
bud. Should you wish more canes, which you may have af- 
ter the second pruning, you may allow two shoots to grow on 
these spurs on the arms ; thus producing more fruit, and giv- 
ing your vines more leaf surface. You will also keep extend- 
ing your arms as before, until your vine fills all the space 
allotted to it ; that is, until it reaches the post, or next vine, 
when the arm may be cut square, and no more extensions be 
made, but the end shoot trained straight up like the others. 
Should a cane at any time be unfruitful, or weak, or be injur- 
ed by accident, or otherwise, it may be cut clean out, and 
dormant buds allowed to start, the most vigorous of which 
may be trained to form a new cane, and the others rubbed 
out. 

The full vine, with its arms completed, and its double 
shoots, is shown in Fig. 6, which is drawn on a scale of half 
an inch to the foot. 

We have never seen a system of training the vine better 
than this ; nor have we ever seen a system but was liable to 
some objection, in some particular case : the objection to this 
being, that, in strong growing vines, there is not sufficient 
room, or vent as it were, for the vine to extend itself, under 



43 



Fig. 5. 




44 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

the influence of our climate. To remedy tliis, as the vines 
increase in age, the two centre shoots or canes — that is, the 
ones nearest the trunk, marked a and 6, in Fig. 6, may be 
allowed to grow upright to the top of the trellis, and extend 
themselves ad libitum, so as to present a feature which may 
appropriately be termed a safety-valve. 

We believe, having gone thus far carefully, in describing 
our system of training, that any person not before familiar 
with the vine, will, if interested in, and loving its culture, be 
enabled to take it safely and profitably from its earliest stages 
to its full developement, when it becomes what it was un- 
doubtedly designed to be, one of the best gifts of a boun- 
tiful Providence, and one that will amply repay all care and 
labor, and give back, tenfold, in its refreshing and grateful 
fruit, all the outlay of its owner. 

We shall now proceed to describe other systems of train- 
ing which are commonly practiced throughout the country, 
so that the intelligent culturist may judge of their different 
merits, and make choice of such as, in his judgment, may 
be the best. 

There are also plans for training adapted to wall and ar- 
bour culture, which may be applied to advantage wherever op- 
portunity offers, or a favored nook is found around the home- 
stead, where a choice specimen vine may be cultivated, 
and often the best fruit produced. The careful husbandman 
will allow no such spot to escape him, and lie idle, but will 
plant a choice Union Village, or Anna, or Herbemont, or 
Rebecca, where it can have the necessary protection, and 
delight with his family in its beautiful foliage, as beautiful as 



46 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

that of any ornamental vine which could be cultivated, and 
its fragrant and refreshing fruit. In this way associations 
are induced, and attachments to the old home formed, which 
are not only a source of present happiness, but exert a moral 
and social influence, which may extend itself by our children 
• and our children's children, through many generations. 



CHAPTER IV. 



OTHER SYSTEMS OF TRAININa. 



There are two systems of training very similar to each 
other, which are much in use for vineyard culture. The first 
is the one first spoken of in the beginning of the directions 
for putting up a trellis, and is trained upon the three wires, 
there mentioned. The posts are set any distance not less than 
16 feet apart, and a wire stretched from one to two feet from 
the earth, for the bottom wire. Another wire is stretched at 
the top of the posts, and one in the middle between the two 
wires. The vines are grown straight and upright, being cut 
back, as before directed, until a strong single cane is produced. 
Arms are then taken as they are grown, three on each side, 
making an arm for each wire on each side of the vine, as 
shown below : 




48 OUR HARDY GEAPES. 

These arms are renewed from time to time, as required, by 
cutting out the old ones, and bending a new shoot in their 
places ; and the fruit is produced from the wood springing 
from the eyes or buds on the arms ; the bearing wood being 
of course, of the present year's growth. 

This system is much in use upon the Hudson, and through- 
out the country, generally, and by it many thousand pounds 
of good grapes are annually produced. But it has many 
defects, one of which we should think would be the difficulty 
of keeping the lower arm in good bearing condition, and the 
constant necessity of renewal : all renewal systems being de- 
vised to remedy some defect. But it is easy to bring a vine 
into this shape, and requires but little judgment to trim a 
vine of this kind ; and this, perhaps, is one of its chief re- 
commendations. 

As we have said before, good grapes can be grown upon 
almost any system of training ; but the constant tendency of 
the vine is upward, and the horizontal arm system is, as far as 
we have known, the best calculated to counteract this tend- 
ency, and to keep the vine in full and regular productiveness. 

There is another plan practiced, we believe, at Croton 
Point, with Catawba and Isabella vines, which is a modifica- 
tion of the above, and perhaps superior to it. It consists in 
growing two permanent upright canes, which are trained on 
three wires, stretched on posts about twenty feet apart — two 
vines ten feet apart, between each post. Arms are trained 
each way from the outside of these upright canes, an arm on 
each wire, and the arms renewed every year, if necessary. 
The fruit is produced from these canes, and the shoots allow- 



49 




50 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

ed to grow as long as they will. This system, we should 
think, involved too much space between the rows, and also 
a renewal of arms ; and is liable to the same objections as 
the preceding. 

There is another system for an arbour, perhaps the best 
that can be devised for that purpose, which is a sort of spur 
and renewal system, and consists in forming regular horizon- 
tal arms, as in the first system, on the bottom bar or rail 
of the arbour, a short distance from the ground, and then 
training canes from the eyes, on these arms, up over the ar- 
bour, at regular distances of about one foot apart, and extend- 
ing these canes, by regular additions of wood, from the ends, 
from year to year, until they reach as far over as desired. 

The side shoots which spring from the eyes on these are 
then to be spurred, and kept close, so as to produce a reg- 
ular bunch of new shoots from each eye, every year. The 
fruit is produced on these bunches of green shoots in abund- 
ance, and the whole appearance of the arbour, covered in this 
way, is very beautiful, and the shade every thing that can be 
desired. 

But these canes will need renewing from time to time, and 
then a cane must be cut out, down by the arm, and another 
new one trained up in its place. Kept in this way, the vine 
will produce fruit for a long time, and, by skillful manage- 
ment, becomes very productive. 

This system may also be carried out on a high trellis ; car- 
rying the canes to the top of the trellis, and spurring upon 
them as upon the arbour ; but it is not as satisfactory for the 
trellis as the regular horizontal arm system. 



OTHER SYSTEMS. 51 

This horizontal arm system may be used to much advan- 
tage, by placing one tier upon another, wherever a brick or 
other wall, or a high fence, or the side of a house, offers a 
fit place and opportunity for a THORMERY SYSTEM. 
This system, so much used abroad, and so much written about 
here, is, in its simplest modification, as follows : 

Suppose you have a wall, or side of a house, which you 
wish to cover to the height of ten feet, and which is sixteen 
feet, or more, long. Begin by setting a vine four feet from 
each end, which will leave eight feet between these vines. 
Now set another vine in the centre ; so that you will have, 
in a space of eight feet, three vines, four feet apart. Cut 
back vines No. 1 and 2 to two feet from the ground, and vine 
No. 3 to six feet from the ground. Take arms from No. 1 
and 2 at two feet, and train them on the horizontal wire two 
feet from the ground, and stop these arms when they reach 
the vine No. 3, in the centre, and the end of your space, 
four feet from the trunk, at each end. Train arms from vine 3 
on horizontal wire, six feet from the ground, and stop them 
at four feet from trunk, on each side. You will thus have a 
double course, which can be multiplied and extended indefi- 
nitely, as your space will allow ; and the same rules followed 
as in the single horizontal arm system, before minutely de- 
scribed. The cut [see next page] exhibits this system in its 
simplist form ; and it is purposely drawn with only three vines, 
in order to make it less complicated, and more easily un- 
derstood. 

This system may be multiplied indefinitely, to any length, 
and carried to several courses in height, by setting more 



52 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 




vines, and varying the distance. The ground, of course, 
must be well prepared, in order to accommodate several vines 
in a short space. The vines should not be trained directly 
against the wall, but a few inches from it, so as to allow of 
circulation of air behind the vines. Blocks may be affixed 
at proper distances, and slats or wires nailed upon them ; or 
if on brick or stone work, an iron spike may be made 
by a blacksmith, and driven into the joints. This spike 
should be about six inches long, with a hole in the larger 
end to receive a wire. It may be driven into the brick- 
work two inches ; leaving four inches space between the 
wire and the wall. A few of these, about eight feet apart, 
upon a course, and a suitable wire drawn through them, will 
furnish a cheap and economical support ; and by this means 
a good crop of grapes may be secured from a spot which 
would otherwise produce nothing. 

We have no desire, in a work of this kind, to multiply 
systems : but there is another mode of training which is 
often adopted for yards and gardens, by which the finest 
fruit is sometimes produced. The finest clusters of Isabella 
grapes are grown on this system, and it may also be adopted 



OTHER SYSTEMS. 53 

for any kind of open air grape. It is similar to one used in 
the south of Europe, and which, from its form and manner, 
we believe has been styled by some travellers, the Clothes- 
LiNE System. 

The vines are carried by a single stem to the top of a post 
seven or eight feet high, and then run off on a single wire to 
another post, or to the corner of a building, or the top of a 
tree, or any other object which affords suitable support. This 
is, of course, the work of time ; the vine being extended from 
year to year, by the same means as the arms are extended, 
before described ; and the annual pruning consisting simply 
in cutting off all the growth which springs from the single 
stem (except the extension,) close to the stem. The fruit is 
produced by the short branches which spring from these sin- 
gle canes. These shoots are annually cut close, and new ones 
grow out in their places. We give (on the next • page,) an 
illustration of training, on this plan, over a number of posts 
and a gatew^ay. 

This plan seems liable to the general objection, of the low- 
er parts of the vine failing, in time, to produce fruit ; but it 
does not seem to be so, practically, to any extent. The ad- 
vocates of this system are loud in their praise of it, and 
claim for their fruit a superior size and excellence. If neces- 
sary to renew, it can easily be renewed, by cutting back the 
old cane, and growing a new one, the same as renewing any 
other cane in any other system. We would not, however, re- 
commend this system, except when circumstances of location 
and grounds favor its use ; as it can be used in some places 
where no other system could. We should not think that 

6* 



54 




O T H E R S Y S T E M S . 55 

vines could flourish under it to advantage, for any number 
of years. 

"We have now shown a sufficient number of kinds of train- 
ing, to enable the intelligent cultivator to choose from gener- 
al principles, such a system as shall suit his particular cir- 
cumstances : and also to give him such a knowledge of the 
habits and wants of the vine, as will enable him to adapt it 
either to his field or garden, or village or city yard ; and hav- 
ing done this, believe that any one can manage and train a 
vine, so as to make it, under any circumstances, produce a 
healthful and profitable return. 

There are some plans which we have not spoken of, such as 
the " Ohio Bow System," the " Short Spur and Renewal Sys- 
tem," and others, which are easily understood, should it be 
thought best to use them. But, as we have said before, we 
believe from those already shown, that some one can be se- 
lected which will give entire satisfaction, and that a close 
study of these will give sufficient knowledge of the general 
principles which govern it, and therefore dismiss the subject 
for the present. 



CHAPTER V. 



FOR PLANTING. 



There are some important items to be attended to in the 
selection and purchase of vines, without a knowledge of 
which much time may be lost, and useless trouble and ex- 
pence and vexation incurred. Vines have been multiplied 
so fast of late years, and pressed upon the market so rapidly 
and pertinaciously, that many persons, after nursing vines for 
which they have paid a fair price, or a price which should 
entitle them to good vines, have found their purchases worth- 
less, not only as to quality, but as to name, and their time 
and labor lost. 

Above all things, then, never purchase cheap vines, nor of 
a person who professes to sell extra vines at a cheap rate, nor 
on any account must you purchase a vine over three years 
old, unless it has been grown in some way that it can be 
moved without disturbing its roots. A vine which has been 
moved after it has attained any age, hardly ever grows good 
fruit, or fruit in any quantity. If you have an old vine in 
your grounds, prize it beyond all price, for it is more valua- 
ble every year it stands ; but valuable only in its own home. 



HOW TO PROCURE VINES. 57 

Therefore you need not covet yonr neighbor's vines, for they 
would be worth but very little without his land also. 

We would, therefore, advise you to follow exactly the plan 
recommended in the directions for planting. Make up your 
mind, through the warm and luxurious days of summer, 
what vines you will plant, and how many, and of what age. 
Early in September, send your order to some good, reliable 
nursery-man — some one whom you know understands his 
business, and has some regard for his word, and has business 
enough to live by, and honesty enough to live by, without 
resorting to petty tricks to sustain his business. Specify, in 
your order what quality of vines you want ; and if you have 
any doubts as to his mode of 'graduating them, specify them 
by price; as, so many Delawares at 50 cents, or at |1,00, as 
the case may be ; trusting him to send you as good vines 
as he can for that price. 

For our own part, we do not believe that a good Delaware 
can be grown, except in very large quantity, for less than 
half a dollar. We have known persons who boasted that 
they had purchased good sized Delawares at a very low rate, 
and come to examine them, lo ! they were grafted^ and dear, 
at any price. We believe, for good results, a first-class Del- 
aware, single eye, two years old, well grown, and which 
should cost, in ordinary cases, about $1,00, will give good 
satisfaction, and make a strong and healthy, and productive 
vine. A younger and smaller vine, at half the price, may bo 
equally good, provided you can wait for it ; and a larger, at 
double or more price, will give returns sooner, but perhaps 
make no better vine. You will therefore see, that a vino 



58 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

costs exactly in proportion to the time and labor expended 
upon it, and make your decision whether you are willing to 
pay another for this time and labor, or expend it yourself; 
and as you decide, so will be the price of your vines. 

Having, therefore, sent or given your order to some relia- 
ble man of a reliable nursery, prepare, some time before you 
may expect them, for their resting-place for the winter. Se- 
lect a spot where there can, by no possibility, be any more 
water than will fall upon it, and where all that falls will speed- 
ily run oflf. If it is a sandy place, so much the better : if not, 
and you wish to be particular, you had better cart upon it a 
load or two of fine, clean sand, not gravel, and save it to put 
around the roots of your vines. 

When your vines arrive, dig a trench large enough to hold 
them all, set with their canes three or four inches apart; 
then, having your trench all ready, and for ordinary vines 
about eight (8) inches deep ; take each vine from the packing 
box, separately, on a moist day, (or at evening is preferable,) 
and cut off its top, to the third or fourth bud, and cut off its 
roots, about one third their length from the extremities, leav- 
ing about two-thirds of the root upon the cane, and pack it 
immediately in the sandy earth, at the bottom of the trench, 
covering it with your hand, spreading out its roots, and filling 
sand between them, so that no one root shall touch the oth- 
ers ; and performing all the operations as carefully as direct- 
ed for fijial setting out. Cover its roots about one inch in 
depth, and taking another vine, trim it and set it out in the 
same way, as close to, and partially above the other, as you 
can, and have earth between them : and proceed until your 



HOW TO PRESERVE VINES. 59 

vines are all placed in the trench. Then fill in your earth, 
and raise a neat mound over them, so that all the water will 
run ofi", and every part of your vine, except, perhaps, the top 
of the cane, shall be at least six or eight inches under the 
surface — more will not hurt the roots — and the top of the 
cane should be four or five inches under. Finish this mound 
neat and smooth, using a rake, if necessary : and if you have 
any doubts, after this, of its shedding water, dig a trench a 
short distance from and around it, arranged so as to carry off 
any surface water which would be likely to remain. 

Your vines are now safe for the winter, and you need give 
yourself no uneasiness about them, whatever the weather 
may be. They are under your control, and ready for plant- 
ing, and you will not have to wait for them in the spring. 

As soon as the hard frosts are passed, uncover the tops, or 
canes of your vines ; but do not disturb the roots, nor open 
your trench proper, until you are ready to plant. If, after un- 
covering your canes severe weather should come on, you can 
throw a carpet or canvass over them, which will protect them ; 
being careful, in so doing, not to break the canes, or injure 
the buds. 

We purchased, last autumn, of Mr. Z. R. Hinkley, of New 
York, from Dr. Grant, at lona Island, quite a lot of vines, 
of Delaware, Diana, Union Village, Allen's Plibrid, &c. and 
heeled them in, in the manner above described. It was a 
damp, open winter, constantly freezing and thawing, and wet, 
and we had considerable anxiety as to the well-being of tbe 
vines. Several times we were tempted to open them, and 



60 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

see if they were disposed to mould or rot ; but concluded to 
run the risk, and let them remain where they were. Such 
a winter has scarcely ever occurred in this latitude, and yet, 
on planting out in the spring, all were found in first-rate con- 
dition, and have all, we believe, particularly the two-year-old 
ones, made a good growth. Some now stand on our own 
grounds, being very strong and healthy, and luxuriant in foli- 
age and cane, and still growing. We recived from the same 
source several vines in the spring, which, though good vines, 
started later than those heeled in : and though unpacked and 
put out by careful hands, many buds were rubbed, which we 
■would rather not have lost. Our vines of both spring and au- 
tumn have done well : but from this and other experience, 
we say unhesitatingly, purchase vines in the autumn, and 
keep them through the winter. 

We also believe that the action of frost Hpon ground pre- 
pared as before directed, is of the most beneficial nature — 
blending and molifying the difi"erent parts, and performing 
that delicate process of comminution, which can be perform- 
ed so much better by nature than by art, and which the pro- 
cess before described, of preparing in the fall, and allowing to 
stand through the winter, is, in our opinion, well calculated 
to accomplish. We therefore again say, by all means pur- 
chase your vines, and prepare your ground in the autumn — 
but plant in the spring. 

We have now carefully followed the various processes of 
preparing the ground, selecting and purchasing vines, keep- 



HOW TO PRESERVE VINES. 61 

ing them through the winter, planting, trimming, training, 
and after treatment, and have only a few hints to make as to 
some matters connected with the culture, which we consider 
it important that every vine-grower should be acquainted 
with. 



CHAPTER VI. 

PROTECTION FROM DROUGHT — INSECT ENEMIES ; HOW 
TO TREAT THEM, AND TO PREPARE FOR WINTER. 

We regard the system ot piaQtmg oeneath the surface of 
the ground, as well calculated to guard against the effects of 
drought, which often comes on very suddenly, in May and 
June, owing to the rapid evaporation of the moisture from the 
surface of the earth, caused by the increasing heat of the sun, 
the prevalence of strong winds, and many other causes. A sur- 
face up to the level of the surrounding earth, no matter how 
well prepared, soon feels the effect of this, and the vine is 
not forwarded during these two growing months, as it should 
be. But if the surface of the hole in which your vine is 
planted is six or eight inches lower than the surrounding sur- 
face, it is not swept over by the winds ; and being well work- 
ed, and its soil made fine and deep, it always attracts what- 
ever moisture there may be in the earth or the air, and 
maintains every thing in its proper proportion. If great 
drought should come on in the early part of the season, a 
slight mulch of hay, or clean straw will make your vine and 
its surroundings every thing that can be desired, to resist the 
drought ; and in extreme cases, a half pail of rain, or river, or 



VARIOUS INSECT ENEMIES. 63 

brook water, applied throiigli a fine rose watering-pot, in the 
evening, will keep it in freshness and vigor. Never use soap 
suds or slops to a newly planted vine ; and if you must use 
well or spring water, have it drawn in the morning, and stand 
in the sun, and apply it in the evening. 

We regard watering, as a general thing, scarcely, if ever, 
necessary, in vineyard culture, and would depend more upon 
thoroughly preparing the ground, and working it after it is 
prepared. Yet you may have a few favorite vines, the south 
side of a building or a fence, or in some situation where they 
may be exposed to extra heat, and feel more than ordinarily 
the effects of dryness. These it may be necessary to nurse a 
little, and a little water applied as above, once a week, will 
keep them growing, and in health and vigor. 

When you have but a few vines to attend to, you may also 
find it of service, in planting out, to give them a little pro- 
tection early in the season. This may be afi"orded by a box 
without top or bottom, set over, or rather around the vine ; 
or the half of a keg, or a large flower-pot, with the bottom 
knocked out, or by three boards about a foot or fifteen inches 
long, nailed together so as to give protection east, west and 
north, and open to the south. 

All these things help to forward your vines, and the quick- 
er the \ine can be made to grow, without using heating arti- 
ficial stimulants, in the way of manure, the better and more 
permanent it will be in its results. 

There are also certain enemies of the vine which are to be 
combatted, and certain injurious consequences to be guarded 
against; insects to be watched, and bunches of fruit to be 



64 OURHARDYGRAPES. 

trimmed, and grown in good shape — and a general care and 
supervision to be exercised in proportion as the owner loves 
the vine, and is interested in its prosperity. 

Mildew sometimes attacks the vine, and is an appearance 
of mouldiness upon the growth and the fruit. We suppose 
it follows a check in the growth, caused by any atmospheric 
change which would produce this effect. It is sometimes 
accompanied by the appearance of numbers of a small aphis^ 
or plant louse, that sucks the diseased juices. It is more com- 
mon on some varieties than others. The Hartford Prolific, 
Concord, and Delaware being, as a general thing, but little 
affected by it, and the Delaware almost entirely free from it. 
The best remedy is, perhaps, dusting the vines with flour sul- 
phur. Plaster of Paris is also said to be good, as well as syr- 
ringing with a solution of nitre in water, or lime-water, or 
soap-suds : but the main remedy, and perhaps the most ef- 
fectual, is sulphur. 

Rot sometimes affects the berries in particular seasons ; as 
also leaf-scald, and various other minor affections : the best 
remedy for which is a thorough and careful cultivation. 

There are also insects to be watched, which injure either 
the plant or the fruit, and are to be carefully guarded against 
and destroyed, as they appear. The most formidable of these 
thus far, is the rose-bug (Macrodactylus Subspinosa,) which 
is a small, yellowish brown insect, of the beetle tribe, with a 
pair of gauze wings, protected by a hard covering, and strong, 
harsh feet, which seem as if they had claws, when they touch 
the skin. They generally make their appearance when the 
grape is in blossom, and feed upon the young blossom ; thus 



HOW TO DESROT THE INSECTS. 65 

destroying the fruit. In some places, however, they are so 
numerous, that they do not confine themselves to the grape 
and rose, but attack other fruits, particularly the cherry, which 
they devour, fruit, leaves, and all. The female, after a few 
weeks, crawls into the ground and deposits her eggs, which 
are whitish, and hardly as large as a grain of mustard seed. 
These soon hatch, and the young grow until attaining their 
full size. At the approach of autumn they descend into the 
ground below the reach of the frost, where they pass the 
winter in a torpid state. In the spring, having gone through 
some changes, they come back to the surface, and are ready 
in their accustomed time, for their regular work. 

There have been many plans devised for getting rid of 
these troublesome pests : but as yet they are by far the most 
formidable enemy, in some sections, which the grape-grower 
has to contend with. Sifting air-slacked lime over the leaves, 
or plaster, or sulphur, has been recommended — as, also, syr- 
inging with whale oil — soap-suds, or water impregnated with 
some strong smelling substance, as Naptlia, or spirits of tur- 
pentine, or kreosote, might make the vines disagreeable to 
them. But all these plans are far inferior to catching and 
killing them. 

The rose-bug has this peculiarity, that when touched or 
jarred, he drops without flying, and he is utterly helpless in 
water. If, therefore, you take a basin of water you can soon 
go over your vines, giviug each shoot upon which the bugs 
are resting a jar, and holding your basin under. The labor 
of this is not half as great as it would seem to be, and there 
IS nothing as sure. After having finished your work, you 

6* 



66 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

may pour off the cold water, and replace it by hot ; or you 
may pour off the water, and then throw the bugs on the 
ground, aud crush them with your foot. If the whole com- 
munity would unite in killing rose-bugs we should soon be rid 
of them. A plan has been devised to accomplish this, at lit- 
tle cost of labor. There are some plants which bloom at the 
right season, of which they are particularly fond. Of these 
the common elder is one ; but it is of itself too great a pest 
to plant in our fields. The spirea sorbifolia, or Yenitian su- 
mach, as it is sometimes called, bears a long conical cluster 
of white flowers, the whole in shape like the bunch of ber- 
ries of the common sumach, and resembling them very much 
at a little distance, except in color. Of these flowers the 
rose-bugs are more fond than scarcely any thing else ; and 
the experiment has been tried, successfully, on a small scale, 
in gardens, &c. the grape being almost free from the rose- 
bugs, and the flowers of the spirea loaded. Going over these 
flowers, a large quantity of them can be at once thrown into 
the water by a tap, and a system of wholesale slaughter car- 
ried out, with very little time and trouble. The spirea is ea- 
sily planted, and it would be well to try it, where the rose- 
bugs are troublesome. 

This catching of rose-bugs should be made a regular bu- 
siness of, in its season, and the vines carefully watched and 
gone over several times a day. In this way they may be 
generally kept under, and the fruit saved ; but in some sec- 
tions they have made their appearance in such swarms, as al- 
most to defy resistance. 

There is another little insect which may be found occasion- 



THINNING THE FRUIT. 67 

ally, rolled up in a leaf at the end of a new shoot, eating it 
away, and checking the growth, if not stopped. A small, 
yellowish, white worm, less than half an inch long, and al- 
most as active as an eel out of water. You must watch your 
vines, and when you see a terminal leaf drooping and curl- 
ing, catch him and kill him. 

There is also a worm, not in our experience common ; but 
when it does attack the vine, makes rapid havoc. It is a round 
worm, like a caterpillar, about three quarters of an inch, 
or an inch long, with alternate yellow and black rings its en- 
tire length. It cuts and eats the leaf from the under side, 
and unless stopped, will quickly strip the young vine espe- 
cially. They may be found, several of them together, on a 
single leaf, at their silent, but rapid work. They are a slow 
and sluggish animal, maiking no atempts to escape, and are 
easily caught and killed. 

"We have now enumerated the principal insects, but by no 
means all. The careful cultivator will be constantly on the 
watch, and whether he be scientifically inclined or not, will 
catch and kill any insects which he may find preying upon 
his vines, from the inevitable caterpillar to the small aphis. 
A steady perseverance will keep his grounds comparatively 
clear, and lessen his labor, as a general thing, from season to 
season : and the trouble of all this, after the first year or two, 
will be no objection, for his love for his vines will increase 
with the care bestowed upon them, and what at first was a 
task and a care, will soon become a healthful amusement and 
a pleasure. 
Thinning the fruit is another means of keeping vour vines 



68 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

productive and healthy, which should never be overlooked 
or neglected. The greatest care should be exercised with 
young vines, especially, in order to prevent their overbear- 
ing. Never allow a vine to bear at all, the first, or same year, 
it is set out, (unless it has been moved in a box, without 
disturbing the roots,) and only moderately the second year. 
The consequences of too large a quantity being left upon the 
tree, are an inferior fruit, and often permanent injury to the 
vine. Even on old vines, the best grape-growers thin out the 
fruit after it sets, removing all inferior and imperfectly form- 
ed bunches, and destroying an amount of fruit, which is often 
three-quarters of the quantity upon the vine. Some insist on 
removing even a larger proportion than this, contending that 
there is nothing lost by it, the remaining quarter making up 
in size, flavor, weight and market value, for that which is re- 
moved. 

The question is often asked, at what time shall we prune 
vines ? We say any time after the fall of the leaf, which 
generally occurs after the first severe frost. Prune then, or 
leave it until January, or first part of February, if you pre- 
fer it ; but we believe it best before the weather is too cold, 
as then it will probably be more thoroughly done, and not 
hurriedly, as it will be likely to be, when feet and fingers are 
aching in the keen air. Besides, vines should not be hand- 
led much when there is frost in them, as they are then brit- 
tle, and disposed to break : nor should they be pruned when 
there is danger of much bleeding. Should the trunks of the 
vines be covered with old and dead bark, remove it ; and 



TO PREPARE FOR WINTER. 69 

should they be infested with insects, wash with soap-suds, or 
some mixture to destroy the insects and cleanse the bark. 

In northern latitudes it has been found necessary to lay 
down the vines in the winter, in order to preserve them from 
the eflfects of the extreme cold, and the changes of tempera- 
ture. This is seldom or never necessary in the neighbor- 
hood of New York City; but in localities farther north 
should always be resorted to, if you wish the best results. 
First prune your vines, and then loosing them from the trel- 
lis, carefully bend and lay them upon the ground — throw 
over a litter of leaves or straw, and cover with about six 
inches of earth. The operation is easily performed, the vine 
bending more readily, even, as it advances in age; and even 
in favorable locations, some kinds, as Herbemont, Catawba, 
Union Village, &c. pay well for it. 

Persons living in high northern latitudes, in this way, 
though we would not advise them to engage largely in vine- 
yard culture, yet may have a few vines under their care, 
which will give them fruit for the table, and enable them to 
develope and bring forward those varieties which we now 
have, and perhaps propagate from them particular varieties 
suited to their own particular latitude. 

The Delaware, however, has proved itself, thus far, hardy 
as any, and capable of growing any where where a grape can 
grow ; and we believe with this treatment will succeed far 
up in the coldest fruit-bearing countries. 



CHAPTER VII. 

HOW THE VINE IS PROPAGATED. 

The propagation of the vine is a subject interesting to ev- 
ery true lover of Horticulture ; and there are but few per- 
sons who are possessed of even one or two vines, and space 
to grow them, who will refrain from attempting to propagate 
them. Few, indeed, will succeed at first, in producing healthy- 
vines ; and there are but a few but will succeed, after prac- 
tice in raising a certain propoi'tion of those they put out. 

Nature's method of propagation is by seeds, which involves, 
also, a renewal of the vital force, and the production of a 
new variety, or some variation of the old one, as it is rarely 
that a variety reproduces itself. All our new varieties are 
produced from seeds, and are new varieties as fer as certain 
charcteristics are concerned ; though, as a general rule, a seed- 
ling bears, in most respects, a strong resemblance to its 
parent. 

Thus, a Catawba grape will produce a grape strongly re- 
sembling the Catawba; it may be better, but still resembling. 
So of the Isabella, whose seedlings are all strongly marked 
by the parent. You must, therefore, recollect, that in pro- 
ducing seedlings you may get one better than the original, 



HOW TO PROPAGATE. 71 

and you may, and probably will get a great many no better) 
or even worse. 

In hybridising, however, the characteristics of two may be 
united. Thus, in Allen's hybrid with the Isabella, for hardi- 
hood and adaptedness to our climate, and the Chasselas, for 
flavor, a result has been produced which furnishes a grape 
blending the two. So in Rodger's hybrids, the large Fox- 
grape of the woods, for size and hardihood, and the fine for- 
eign varieties for flavor and productiveness, are united in va- 
rious combinations, to produce many grapes of new and strik- 
ing peculiarities. This process is yet in its infancy, and we 
can scarcely foresee or imagine its results ; but we believe 
that it will give us new and endless combinations, and, as in 
the strawberry, so in the grape, will lead us on in progressive 
excellence, the perfection of which it is impossible at present 
to estimate. 

The process of raising from the seed is very simple. Se- 
lect your seed from the finest and ripest grapes, those that 
have been ripe the longest being preferable, and either plant 
them at once in a well-prepared bed, and cover them with 
litter during the winter ; or mix them in a flower-pot with 
sand, and bury pot and all in a dry place in the open air, 
to remain for the winter. Sow your seed in the spring, and 
shade a little, when they come up, from the hot mid-day sun, 
and select your shortest jointed, thriftiest plants for pres- 
ervation. 

In making hybrids you must first grow your grape. The 
grape is, in the blossom, capable of being fertilized, or cross- 
ed with other varieties, and, to insure this with certainty, 



72 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

the blossoms you wish to raise your grapes from, must be 
protected from accidental fertilization, by the wind, bees, &c. 
carrying the pollen from other blossoms upon them ; and at 
the proper time you take, with a camel's hair brush, the pol- 
len from the blossoms you wish to cross with, and introduce 
it upon the blossoms you have covered — or, shake it over 
the blossoms and cover again, to guard against accidental 
fertilization. Keep covered until the fruit sets ; then ripen 
your fruit, and proceed to bow the seed as before. Fruit may 
be expected from seedling vines in about four or five years. 

Vines, however, of established kinds, are mostly propa- 
gated from layers, single eyes, and cuttings, either of which 
will produce the same fruit as the parent vine. 

To propagate by layers you must have an estabHshed vine, 
of some age, and of good healthy condition. You may, if you 
wish to layer from it, trim it in such a way as to grow young 
canes from near the roots, or in any position where they may 
be readily bent to the ground. Early in spring, having first 
put your ground in good order, dig a trench five or six inches 
deep, and lay your cane in the bottom of this trench, leaving 
the end out of it, and pin it fast by crotched sticks, or in 
any way which will secure it. A piece of wire bent in the 
form of a hair-pin, large enough to embrace the cane, is a 
good fastener. Leave the trench open, and as the vine puts 
forth, your layered cane will shoot also, and these shoots may 
be gradually filled around with earth, as they grow, and the 
cane covered, until your trench is full. In the fall, or early next 
spring, sever the cane from the parent vine, and each shoot, 



TO PROPAGATE BY CUTTINGS. 73 

with a piece of the rooted layer fast to it, will be a vine, val- 
uable, accordiDg to its size, and growth, and thriftiness. 

Layers may also be rooted by bending a shoot of last year's 
growth into a large pot, or basket, or box, and leaving one 
end out, keep the earth moist, until rooted. These are easi- 
ly moved, and will make good plants. 

Plants may be raised from cuttings, by preparing a bed of 
good earth, rather sandy than otherwise, but which shall nei- 
ther be dry nor wet : and, taking wood of last year's growth, 
cut it into lengths of two or three eyes — always cutting off 
near the lower eye. Insert these in this earth, compacting the 
earth moderately but evenly, at the bottom of each cutting. 
A good way is to dig a trench about deep enough to receive 
your cuttings, at such depth as to leave the uppermost eye 
about even with the surface. Set your cuttings in this trench 
as deep as above, press the earth well about the bottom of 
each, separately, and then fill and smooth off your trench 
even with the surface. 

Cuttings are set in this way very rapidly, and if a little 
care is used, the work can be done very thoroughly. All 
grape cuttings should be selected at the annual pruning of 
the vines, and cut in proper length, and buried in a dry spot 
in the garden, out of the reach of frost, until spring. Or, 
they can be packed in the cellar, in sand, which must be kept 
just so moist (not wet) as to receive an impression from the 
hand, and not allowed to be frozen. All gr^pe cuttings are 
benefitted by soaking in water, before setting — some a lono-- 
er, some a shorter time, according to the hardness of the 
wood. 



74 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

But we would advise every hortoculturist to have a prop- 
agating box, not for grapes only, but for other plants and 
slirubs. This may be made in the same way as a hot-bed, 
without the heat, by simply placing a frame or box without 
bottom, on a good light bed of earth, filling round the out- 
side so as to throw off rain-water, and fitting on a moveable 
sash, with a cheap muslin shade to be used in the middle of 
the day, when the sun is hot. You must regulate this with 
care, both as to heat and moisture. As a general rule it will 
want water about once a week, which must be applied at 
evening, through a fine rose watering-pot. The water must 
be moderately warm, not as warm as milk, nor as cold as rain- 
water, but without any perceptible chill, and must be given in 
quantity according to the state of your bed. You must 
watch closely your cuttings, which may be inserted as above 
directed, for the open ground ; but may be started earlier in 
the season. 

If a cold night comes on, cover your box with carpet. In 
a very hot day shade it. As a general rule, all cuttings, 
whether in the box or in the open air, should be shaded from 
hot sun while starting, and until established. They may be 
hardened to sun and air gradually, and at length all covering 
removed, and the plants brought to the condition of open air 
plants. 

But by far the most usual way of propagating, with nur- 
sery men, is by single eyes. This requires a considerable 
knowledge and skill, and also the proper appliances to carry 
it on satisfactorily ; and but few will accomplish it so as to 
produce good plants, without the necessary glass structures, 



SINGLE EYE METHOD. 75 

and proper bottom heat. Yet you may do it all by having 
a good reliable hot-bed, with a mild, steady heat. 

A single eye is a bud with about one inch or less of wood 
attached. Some split this wood retaining the half with the 
bud, others use it whole. Some set it upright, others hori- 
zontal. It should be placed in a pot, box, or pan filled with 
clean sand, the bud uppermost, and about half an inch below 
the surface. Some add a little charcoal to the sand, but sand 
will answer for all purposes, and this box or pot plunged in a 
bed, or place where it will have a steady, mild bottom heat, a 
little above the temperature of the atmosphere of the house 
or frame. If in a green-house, it is easier to regulate it all ; 
but if in a hot-bed the glass must be shaded, and the proper 
humidity kept up, in order to promote the rooting or striking 
of the plant, a*s it is called. The bud will soon shoot, and in 
the Delaware and some other kinds, will grow to considerable 
length, without any roots having put forth. These shoots 
and leaves must be carefully guarded from a hot sun, which, 
at this stage, would kill them ; and the proper temperature 
and moisture attended to and regulated, with as little varia- 
tion as possible. 

After your shoots and leaves have put forth, and you can 
discover little feeding roots or fibres on the side of your 
wood, you must shift your eyes, carefally and skilfully, into 
either a bed with proper earth, which will answer for the 
most easily propagated varieties, or preferably, for Delawares, 
&c. into small pots filled with fertile earth. These pots 
should hold about half a pint, or even less, and should then 
be plunged in a proper earth bed, in a frame or glass house, 



76 OUR HARDY GRAPES. 

and temperature regulated as before, except that it may not 
be kept up to quite tbe standard, as the plant will now begin 
to support itself; but it is always best to be particular at first 
with young plants. K your plants grow well, in about two 
or three weeks you will need to re-pot them, in pots a little 
larger, and in about the same length of time to shift pots 
again; and so to proceed until your plant has ripened its 
wood and acquired its full strength. During the latter part 
of the season, you must gradually harden them to bear sun- 
light and air, so that by the time they are ready to drop their 
leaves, they may be able to bear the open air without diflS- 
culty, and need no protection, except a slight one, from the 
frosts of winter. 

If these plants should not be re-potted when their roots 
reach the outside, and fill the pot, they would become as it 
were stunted, and their health and usefulness permanently 
injured. And again, should they be put at first into pots too 
large, some varieties would fail to form good fibrous roots, and 
become poor, weak growing vines. 

This method of propagating from single eyes requires care, 
observation, and constant attention, but first-class plants are 
produced by it, if properly conducted ; and these plants being 
nearly all new growth, are among the best that can be grown, 
and in no way inferior, except in period of bearing, to the 
best and strongest layers. 

There are other methods of propagation practised by some, 
such as grafting old vines under ground, laying down a long 
layer, running the blade of a knife through it between the 
joints, in several places, and inserting Delaware or other cut- 



OTHER METHODS. 77 

tings or grafts of two eyes, then burying all to tlie uppermost 
eye of the cuttings. Also by grafting on pieces of roots of 
the wild vine, in the same way as apple-root grafting, and 
sticking them in a hot-bed or open trench. Also budding 
the vine has been proposed ; but we have but little faith in 
any of the above methods to produce good servicable vines, 
and only mention them as a part of the methods resorted to ; 
and that the amateur cultivator may try his hand at them, if 
he thinks best, and find perhaps instruction and amusements 
in these, as he will in all operations connected with the vine. 



ADDENDA. 



We append a Letter, upon tlie subject of Grape Cul- 
ture, written by Mr. Z. R. Hinkley, of No. 25 Park Row, 
New York, containing an estimate of the profits of one 
acre of Vineyard, from year to year, up to the fifth year, 
which we have submitted to one of the most successful grape 
growers in this country, who pronounced the estimate of 
profit not at all exaggerated, but if any thing a little under 
the reality. We give it entire, only wishing to say, that the 
allowance for the sale of cuttings is, perhaps, a little over the 
present value, they not being worth quite as much now as 
when the article was written, on account of their having be- 
come more plentiful. 

New York, 1863. 
Gentlemen : 

The object of labor is to bring with it corresponding re- 
sults ; and while we appreciate the growing of corn, wheat 
and potatoes, as staple commodities, we will endeavor to 
show that various fruits may be cultivated, without interfer- 
ing in the least with the general management of the farm, 



LETTER ON PROFITS OF GRAPE GROWING. 79 

and wLicli will prove mucli more remunerative, if not quite 
as indispensable. While I might mention, in their order, 
the cranberry, peach, pear, and apple, as indispensable fruits, 
yielding fair results, I shall endeavor to prove that the grape 
takes precedence of them all, both in certainty of crop and 
remuneration : for, while the average profit of the most re- 
munerative of these amounts to about $500 per acre, per an- 
num, the grape, at present prices, will amount to $1000, 

Until recently the cultivation of the grape, in this region of 
country has been confined almost exclusively to the hot-house 
and garden : but now we can cite many instances where it is 
classed among the products of the farm, with the most en- 
couraging results. I know of a gentleman who has realized 
the past year |1200 from the sale of grapes alone, the prod- 
uct of an acre of vines. These vines have been planted but 
three years, and have already paid all cost and interest, in- 
cluding land, etc. Next year their crop will be still larger, 
with better fruit ; as the vine does not become fully establish- 
ed in bearing before the fifth or sixth year from planting. Cer- 
tainty of results is a characteristic of grape culture : no fruit 
can compare with it in this regard ; and, by obeying plain 
laws and directions, they can be as easily cultivated as corn 
or potatoes. All objections made to climate, soil, etc. as ad- 
verse to the successful culture of the grape in this country, 
are without foundation in fact. We have also native grapes, 
which, under proper cultivation, will equal any foreign vaii- 
eties. Among these I would give the Delaware, lona and 
Israella. These varieties are natives — hardy, early, product- 
ive, and of delicious flavor. They ripen about three weeks 



80 



OTJR HARDY GRAPES 



earlier tlian the Isabella and Catawba, grown in the same 
locality, and are subject to none of their inherent diseases. 

To make myself fully understood on this subject, I will 
add to what has already been said, an estimate of the cost 
of an acre of vines, including land, etc., and carry it along 
from year to year, to the end of the fifth year from planting, 
exhibiting the profit and loss of the same, during the term 
of years under consideration. I take the cost of the vines 
from the highest rates named in the wholesale price-lists for 
the present year, and place the land at $200 per acre, giving 
the farmer the advantage of a discount from the cost of both 
in this Estimate, in his favor. 



To 2000 (No. 2) Delaware Vines, 

atSTcts. - - - $740 00 

" 1 acre of land for Vineyard, 200 00 

" Workinc and preparing the 

land for planting, - - 125 00 

" Necessary stakes for an acre of 

Vines, - - - - 20 00 

*' Labor on vines, eta Ist year, 15 00 



Estimate^Fir§t Year. 

CONTRA, Cb. 

By 250 bushels carrots grown be- 
tween the rows, first year's 
planting, - - - - $50 00 
" Cash to balance account the 1st 

year, - . - - 1050 00 



1100 00 J 

Second Year. 



1100 00 



To bal. brou^rht down, - $1050 00 
" labor among the vines 2d year, 25 00 
" Manuring ground, etc., 2d year, 20 00 
" 1 year's interest added in cash, 73 50 



1168 50 

Third Year. 



CONTRA, Ce. 

By cuttings this year from vines, 25 00 
" Cash to bal. acc't, 2d year, 1143 50 



1168 50 



To balance brought down, $1143 50 

♦' labor among the vines this year, 30 00 
" manuring and working ground, 20 00 
" cost of wire and posts for an 

acre of vines, - - - 150 00 
" 1 year's interest added to cost, 83 00 



CONTRA, Ce. 

By cuttings this year from vines, 85 00 
" 3 tons of grapes this year, at 

12 cts. per lb., - - - 720 00 
" cash to bal. account, 3d year, 671 50 



1426 50 

Foiirtli Year. 



1426 50 



To balance brorught down, - $671 50 
*' labor among the vines this ye^r, 60 00 
♦* 1 year's interest added to cost, 47 00 
" Cash to balance, - - 23150 



IQIOOO 



Ce. 



CONTRA, 

By cuttings this year, - - 50 00 
" By 4 tons of grapes, this year, 

at 12 ots. per lb., - - 960 00 

1010 00 



THE PRACTICAL FARMER. 81 



Fifth Year. 

To labor araons; the vines, etc. the | CONTRA, Cr. 

5th year, " - - - - $75 00 By last year's balance account, 231 50 
I" manuring the ground, etc. - 25 00 . " 1 year's interest on same, - 16 20 
." Cash in treasury this year, 1157 70 1 " cuttings this year, - - - 50 00 

' " 4 tons of grapes, at 12 cents 
per lb. CshouJd be 5 tons this 
year,) 960 00 

$1267 70 



$1257 70 

The most important item in the foregoing estimate is the first cost 
of the vines : in fact it is the only item, with the farmer, of any ac- 
count. Hence a wise selection of these is of the first importance. All 
orders committed to me will be faithfully filled, and true to name. 
All vines bought of me are warranted, or replaced if they fail to grow 
well by fair treatment. I will also give directions, when needed, in 
planting, training and pruning the vine ; in fact, place the whole mat- 
ter of purchase and culture of vines so favorably, that none can fail 
to see, I think, that it will be for their advantage to avail themselves 
of my superior facilities for furnishing every variety of grape-vines that 
can be grown in your region with profit. 

Yours, etc., Z. R. HINCKLEY, 25 Park Row, 

Office of the Practical Farmer, New York. 

THE PRACTICAL FARMER, 

AND 

SCIENTIFIC CAEDENER, 

PUBLISHED weekly; 

C. a. COUTANT & J. a. BAKER, 

EDITORS, 
Is designed to elevate the Farmer to his true position as a 
scientific man. Its editorials are spirited, and among its 
regular correspondents are the most able Agriculturists in 
the country. It will be our special aim to make this journal 
a welcome visitor to every household. Its Lady's Depart- 



82 THE PRACTICAL FARMER. 

ment will be found interesting and useful. Its Youth's De- 
partment will be presided over by a gentleman who has, for 
years, been a teacher of youth, in one of our best institutions 
of learning. 

We shall make our paper the true medium of success to 
grape growing. Each number will lead the way and give un- 
mistakable directions on this subject. The novice cannot 
err or meet with loss, if he will but follow our directions in 
purchasing the right kind of vines, or in planting, training 
and pruning them for the garden or vineyard. 

Neither shall we fail to give right instruction in the proper 
culture of trees, shrubs, and flowers. Whatever of value 
tends to enrich and extend the products of the Garden, or to 
benefit and improve the Orchard or Farm, will receive our 
special attention. 

The Farmer's interests are emphatically ours, and there- 
fore we are identified with every improvement, and shall, 
from time to time, bring forth in our columns, things new 
and old, to aid him in his important work. The analysis of 
soils, and the best mode of enriching them, forms another 
item of our work ; and from the best aids we ha\ e, we shall 
not let a subject of importance to the best enrichment of soils 
or to their culture, pass, without proper and useful discussion. 

The Practical Farmer is a Weekly Periodical! — 
enough in each number to engross the week, and not over- 
load it : while, if four of our numbers were bound in one, 
we should make a monthly of 80 pages — more than equal to 
any other Agricultural work published in this city, both in 
quantity of matter and in value. 



THE PKACTICAL FARMER. 83 

OUR TERMS ARE, 
For Single Copies, . . $1 00 per annum. 
Five " . . . 4 50 « 

Ten " ... 8 50 " 

Twenty " . . . 16 00 " 

^*5j. Liberal arrangements will be made with those who 
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Address COUTANT & BAKER, 

25 Park Row, N. Y. 



OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 

The Practical Farmer — A Weekly Journal, devoted to 
the Farm, Garden and Household. This is an excellent ag- 
ricultural journal, published in New'York by Coutant & Ba- 
ker, and should be in the hands of every farmer, agricultr- 
ist and gardener. It is accompanied by illustrations ; and, 
for valuable information in all that relates to farmers, is not 
surpassed by any agricultural magazine in the country. It is 
ably edited, and filled with original articles of interest and 
profit to the reader. — National Union, Cincinnati. 

The Practical Farmer. — The Practical Farmer and Sci- 
entific Gardener, is the title of a weekly journal, printed in 
pamphlet form, devoted to the farm, garden, and household. 
It is an able work, and should be in the hands of every farm- 
er, gardener, and fruit-grower in the country. One* of the 
Editors of this paper, John G. Baker, is a well known resi- 
dent of this county, who is a practical, intelligent farmer, and 
whose large experience enables him to give much informa- 
tion that will be of interest to those engaged in a like call- 
ing. — Rondout Courier, Rondout, N. Y. 

The Practical Farmer is a very neat periodical, devoted 
to agricultural interests, published weekly at 25 Park Row, 
New York, at one dollar a year. It is edited with ability, 
and contains a large amount of useful aud valuable informa- 
tion. — Rhinebeck Gazette, Rhinebeck, N. J. 

The Practical Farmer. — We are in receipt of No. 14, 
of the 2d volume of this publication. From a casual exam- 
ination of its pages, we have arrived at the conclusion, that 
it is one of the most useful agricultural papers any where in 
the eastern States. — Vinton Eagle, Vinton, Iowa. 



84 AGEICULTURAL BOOKS POBLISHED 



^%^* Single copies of any Booh upon this list sent hy 

mail, free of postage, to any address, upon 

receipt of its price in Bank Bills, 

or in Postage Stamps. 

O F 



PUBLISHED BY 




1% mm> ^^^^^^ w&^^ 

25 PAEK KOW, ISTEW, YORK. 



American Farmer's Encyclopedia, . $5 00 

As A Book of Reference for the Farmer or Garden- 
er, this work is superior to any other. It contains reliable 
information for the cultivation of every variety of Field 
ancTGarden Crops ; the use of all kinds of Manures ; de- 
scriptions and figures of American Insects : and contain- 
ing over ]200 pages, illustrated by numerous engravings 
of Grasses, Grains, Animals, Implements, Insects, &c. By 
Gouverneur Emerson, of Pennsylvania. 8 vo. morocco. 
.4 merican Weeds and Useful Plants. • 1 50 
An Illustrated Edition of Agricultural Botany : an 
Enumeration and Description of Weeds and Useful Plants 
which merit the notice, or require the attention of Amer- 
ican Agriculturalists. By Wm. Darlington, M. D. Re- 
vised, with additions, by Geo. Thurber, Prof, of Mat. 
Med. and Botany in the New York College of Pharmacy. 



85 



Illustrated with 300 figures, drawn expressly for this work. 
Allen's (R. I..) American Farm Book, . $1 OO 

Or, a Compend of American Agriculture : being a prac- 
tical Treatise on Soils, Manures, Draining, Irrigation, 
Grasses, Grain, Roots, Fruits, Cotton, Tobacco, Sugar Cane, 
Rice, and every Staple product of the United States ; with 
the best methods of Planting, Cultivating and preparation 
for Market. 

Allen's (R. 1..) I>i§ease§ of Domestic Animals, T5 
Being A History and Description of the Horse, Mule, 
Cattle, Sheep, Swine, Poultry, and Farm Dogs, with 
Directions for their Management, Breeding, Crossing, Rear- 
ing, Feeding, and Preparation for a profitable ^larket : also 
their Diseases and Remedies, together with full Directions 
for the management of the Dairy, and the comparative econ- 
omy and advantages of Working Animals ; the Horse, Mule, 
Oxen, &c. 

Allen's (li. F.) Rural Arcliitectnre, . . 1 25 
Being a Complete Description of Farm Houses, Cot- 
tages and Out Buildings, comprising Wood Houses, Work- 
shops, Tool Houses, Carriage and Waggon Houses, Stables, 
Smoke and Ash Houses, Ice Houses, Apiaries or Bee- 
Houses, Poultry Houses, Rabbitry, Dovecote, Piggery,Barns 
and Sheds for Cattle, &c. &c. ; together with Lawns, Plea- 
ure Grounds and Parks ; the Flower, Fruit and Vegetable 
Garden ; also, the best method of conducting water into 
Cattle Yards and Houses. Beautifully Illustrated. 

American Arcliitect, . . . . . 6 00 
Comprising Original Designs of Cheap Country and 



86 AGRICTLTURAL BOOKS PUBLISHED 

Village Residences, with Details, Specifications, Plans, 
and Directions, and an Estimate of the Cost of each De- 
sign. By John W. Rich, Architect. 4to morocco. 

Beinent's (€. N,) Rabbit Fancier, . . $0 50 
A Treatise on the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding, and 
General Management of Rabbits, with remarks upon their 
Diseases and Remedies, to which are added full Directions 
for the construction of Hutches, Rabbitries, &c. together 
with Recipes for Cooking and Dressing for the Table. 
Beautifully Illustrated. 

Blake's (Rev. J, li.) Farmer at Home. • 1 25 
A Family Text-Book for the Country ; being a Cyclo- 
pedia of Agricultural Implements and Productions, and of 
the more important topics in Domestic Economy, Science 
and Literature, adapted to Rural Life. By Rev. John L. 
Blake, D. D. 

Boiissing^ault's (J. B.) Rnral Fconomy, . 1 25 
Or, Chemistry Applied to Agriculture : presenting dis- 
tinctly, and in a simple Manner, the Principles of Farm 
Management, the preservation and Use of Manures, the 
Nutrition and Food of Animals, and the General Economy 
of Agriculture. 

Broiirne'§ American Bird Fancier, • . 50 
The Breeding, Rearing, Feeding, Management and Pe- 
culiarities of Cage and House Birds. Illustrated with En- 
gravings. 

Browne's American Poultry Yard, . . 1 25 
Comprising the Origin, History and Description of 
the difterent Breeds of Domestic Poultry, with complete 



BY C. M. SAXTON, NEW YORK. 87 

Directions for their Breeding, Crossing, Rearing, Fatten- 
ing and preparation for Market ; • including specific Direc- 
tions for Caponizing Fowls, and for tlie Treatmont of tlie 
principal Diseases to which they are subject ; drawn from 
authentic sources and personal observation. Illustrated 
with numerous Engravings. 

Browne's Ficld-Book of Manures, • • 1 25 

Or American Muck Book ; treating of the Nature, Prop- 
erty, Sources, History, and Operations of all the Fertiliz- 
ers and Manures in common Use, with specific Directions 
for their Preservation and Application to the Soil and to 
the Crops; drawn from authentic sources, actual experi- 
ence and personal observation, as combined with the Lead- 
ing Principles of Practical and Scientific Agriculture. 

Bridgeman's Yonng^ Oardener's Assistant, 1 50 

In Three Parts ; containing Catalogues of Garden and 
Flower Seed, with Practical Directions under each Head 
for the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables, Flowers, Fruit- 
Trees, the Grape-Vine, &c. ; to which is added a Calendar 
to each part, showing the work necessary to be done in the 
various departments, each month in the year. 8vo. 

Breck-'s (Joseph) Book of Flovrers, . . 1 25 

In which are Described all the Various Hardy Her- 
baceous Perennials, Annuals, Shrubs, Plants, and Ever- 
green Trees, with directions for their Cultivation. 
Buist's American Flower Garden Directory, 1 25 

Containing Practical Directions for the Culture op 
Plants in the Flower Garden, Hot-House, Green-House, 



88 AGRICULTURAL BOOKS PUBLISHED 

Rooms or Parlor Windows, for every montli in the year; 
"witli a description of the plauts most desirable in each, the 
nature of the soil and situation best adapted to their 
growth ; the proper season for transplanting, &c. ; with 
Instructions for Erecting a Hot-house, Green-house, and 
laying out a Flower Garden : the whole adapted to either 
Large or Small Gardens, with Instructions for Preparing 
the Soil, Propagating, Planting, Pruning, Training and 
Fruiting the Grape-Vine, 

Brtiist's (Robert) Family Kitchen Oardeiier, $ 75 

Containing Plain and Accurate Descriptions of all 
the Diiferent species and Varieties of Culinary Vegetables, 
with their Botanical, English, French and German Names, 
Alphabetically arranged, with the Best Mode of Cultivat- 
ing them in the Garden, or under Glass ; also. Descriptions 
and Character of the most Select Fruits, their Manage- 
ment, Propagation, &c. 

Cliorlton's (IV in.) Grape Groover's Guide, . 60 

Intended Especially for the American Climate ; be- 
ing a Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape- 
Vine in each Department of Ilot-house, Cold Grapery, 
Retarding House and Out-door Culture. With Plans for 
the Construction of the requisite Buildings, and giving the 
best Methods for Heating the same. Every Department 
being fully Illustrated. 

Cobbctt's Anieriean Gardener, . • . 50 

A Treatise on the Situation, Soil and Laying out of 
Gardens, and the Making and Managing of Hot-beds and 



BY C. M. SAXTON, NEW YORK. 89 

Green-houses, and on the Propagation and Cultivation of 
the several Sorts of Vegetables, Herbs, Fruits and Flowers. 

Cloc's (S. W.) American Fruit Book, . . $ 60 
Containing Directions for Raising, Propagating and 
Managing Fruit Trees, Shrubs and Plants ; with a Descrip- 
tion of the Best Varieties of Fruit, including New and 
Valuable Kinds. ICmo., sheep. 

Cole's American Veterinarian, ... 60 
Containing Diseases of Domestic Animals, their Causes, 
Symptoms and Remedies, with Rules for Restoring and 
Preserving Health, by Good Management ; also for Train- 
ing and Breeding. 16mo., sheep. 

Comprehensive Farm Record, . . • 3 00 
Tlie Same, .... FuU Russia, . 5 00 
A well-printed and ruled blank volume, of 150 quar- 
to pages, with an explanatory Introduction, and a series of 
carefully prepared headings, arranged for entering every 
date and event useful for Reference upon the Farm ; the 
result of each particular Crop, and of each Field, and 
every Item useful for Record and Reference, concerning 
Domestic Animals. This Book is ruled and arranged for 
entering the results of twenty -five years — from 1860 to 
1884, inclusive, and will supply every want, as to the 
means of arriving at a direct and intelligent understand- 
ing of the profits and loss of the various departments 
of Husbandry. Prepared by Dr. B. F. Hough, Superin- 
tendent of the New York State Census. 
I>adtlN (Ocorge H.) MTodern Horse Doctor, 1 25 
Containing Practical Observations on the Causes, 



90 AGKICULTURAL BOOKS PUBLISHED 

Nature and Treatment of Diseases and Lameness of Hors- 
es ; embracing the most recent and approved Methods, 
according to an enlightened system of Veterniary Practice, 
for the Preservation and Eestoration of Health. With Il- 
lustrations. 

I>add's Anatomy and Physiology of the Horse, 

8vo morocco, plain Plates, 2 50 : with coloured plates, ^5 00 
"With Anatomical and Questional Illustrations ; con- 
taining also a Series of Examinations on Equine Anatomy 
and Philosophy, with Instructions in Dissection and the 
mode of Making Anatomical preparations, and a Glossary 
of Veterinary Technicalities, Toxicol ogical Chart, and 
Dictionary of Veterniary Science. 

I>ana'§ (Sam'l H.) Mnck Manual for Farmers, 100 
A Treatise on the Physical and Chemical Properties 
of soils, and Chemistry of Manures ; including, also, the 
subject of Composts, Artificial Manures and Irrigation. A 
new edition, with a Chapter on Bones and Superphos- 
phates. 

Eastwood on the cultivation of the Cranherry,50 
With a Description of the best Varieties, illustrated. 

Ellicott's (F. R.) Western Fruit Book, . 1 25 
A New Edition of this Work, Thoroughly Revised ; 
embracing all the new and valuable Fruits, with the latest 
Improvements in their Cultivation ; especially adapted to 
the wants of Western Fruit Growers ; full of Illustrations. 

Every Liady her Own Floiver Gardener, • 50 
Addressed to the Industrious and Economical only ; 
containing simple and Practical Directions for cultivating 



91 



Plants and Flowers; also, Hints for the Management of 
Flowers in Rooms, with brief Botanical Descriptions of 
Plants and Flowers. The whole in plain and simple lan- 
guage. By Louisa Johnson. 

French Farm l>rainagc, . • • • 1 25 

The Principles, Process and Effects of Draining Land 
■with Stones, "Wood, Drain-plows, Open Ditches, and espe- 
cially with Tiles : including tables of Rainfall, Evaporation, 
Filtration, Excavation, capacity of Pipes, cost and number 
to the acre. 

Fessenden's Complete Farmer & Gardener, 1 50 
The Rural Economist and New American Gardener ; 
Containing a Compendious Epitome of the most Impor- 
tant Branches of Agriculture and Rural Economy, with 
practical Directions on the Cultivation of Fruits and Veg- 
etables, including Landscape and Ornamental Gardening. 

Field's (Thomas W,) Fear Culture, . . 1 00 
The Pear Garden ; or a Treatise on the Propagation and 
Cultivation of the Pear Tree, with instructions for its 
Management from the Seedling to the Bearing Tree : with 
Illustrations. 

Fish Culture, 1 00 

. A Treatise on the Artificial Propagation of Fish, and 
the Construction of Ponds, with the Description and Hab- 
its of such kinds of Fish as are most suitable for Piscicul- 
ture. By Theodatus Garlick, M. D., Vice-President of 
the Cleveland Academy of Nat. Science. 8vo. 

Ouenon on Milch Coivs, 60 

A Treatise on Milch Cows, whereby the Quality and 



92 AGRICULTURAL BOOKS PUBLISHED 

Quantity of Milk which any Cow will give may be accu- 
rately determined, by observing Natural Marks or external 
indications alone ; the length of time she will continue to 
give milk, &c. &c. By M. Francis Guenon, of France. 
Translated by Nicholas P. Trist, Esq. ; with Introduction 
Remarks and Observations on the Cow and the Dairy, by 
John S. Skinner. Illustrated with numerous Engravings. 
8vo. 

Oiinn's (John C.) Domestic Medicine, . $3 00 
Or, Poor Man's Friend, in the hours of Affliction, Pain, 
and Sickness. This points out in plain language, free from 
Doctor's Terms, the Diseases of Men, Women and Child- 
ren, and the most approved means used in their cure, and 
is intended expressly for the benefit of Families. It also 
contains descriptions of the Medicinal Roots and Herbs of 
the United States, and how they are to be used in the cure 
of Disease. 8vo., marble edge, sheep. 

Herbert's, (H. Wm.) Hints to Horse-keepers, 1 25 
A Complete Manual for Horsemen ; embracing how to 
Breed a Horse ; how to Buy a Horse ; how to Break a 
Horse ; how to Use a Horse ; how to Feed a Horse ; how 
to Physic a Horse (Allopathy and Homopathy ;) how to 
Groom a Horse ; how to Drive a Horse ; how to Ride a 
Horse. And Chapters on Mules and Ponies. By Frank 
Forrester. "With additions, including Baucher's Sys- 
tem OF Horsemanship; also, giving Directions for the 
Selection and Care of Carriages and Harness, of every de- 
scription, from the " Turn Out," to the Farmer's " Gear." 
Illustrated throughout. 

Hall's (l^iss E. M.) American Cookery, and 

Hoinestic Economy, . . . . 1 00 

The Cookery contains 973 Recipes, relating to every De- 



BY C. M. SAXTON, NEW YORK. 93 

partment is Illustrated with 44 Engravings. The Domes- 
tic Economy contains 363 Recipes, and important infor- 
mation relating to the Garden, the Orchard, the Ward- 
robe, the Laundry, etc. etc. 
Hooper's Dog siiid Guu, . • . . $ 50 

A Few Loose Chapters on Shooting ; among which will 
be found some Anecdotes and Incidents ; also, Instructions 
for Dog Breaking, and interesting Letters from Sports- 
men. By A Bad Shot. 

Johiistoii'i^ (James F. W,) Cateclii^iti of Ag- 

rieultiiral Cliemistry and Geology , . 25 

With an Introduction by John Pitkin Norton, M. A. 
late professor of Scientific Agriculture in Yale College. 
With Notes and additions, by the Author, prepared ex- 
pressly for this edition, and the use of Schools. Cloth 
back, paper sides. 

Jolinston'^ (Jas. F. W.) Agricultural Cliem- 

istry, • 1 50 

Lectures on the Application of Chemistry and Geol- 
ogy to Agriculture. New edition, with an Appendix, con- 
taining the Author's Experiments in Practical Agriculture. 

]:.ang§trotli (Rev. L<. L..) on the Hive and 

Honey Bee, • s 1 25 

A Practical Treatise on the Hive and Honey Bee ; 
third edition, enlarged and Dlustrated, with numerous En- 
gravings. This work is, without doubt, the best work on 
the Bee published in any language, whether we consider 
its scientific accuracy, the practical instruction it contains, 
or the beauty and completeness of its Illustrations. 

ILieucliar's HoTVto Build and Ventilate Hot- 
houses, 1 25 

A Practical Treatise on the Construction, Heating, 

and Ventilation of Hot-Houses, including Conservatories, 



94 AGRICULTURAL BOOKS PUBLISHED 

Green-Houses, Graperies, and other kinds of Horticultural 
Structures; with Practical Directions for their manage- 
ment, in regard to Light, Heat and Air. Illustrated with 
numerous engravings. By P. B. Leuchars, Garden Ar- 
chitect. 

Wash's (J. A.) Progressive Farmer, . . $ 60 
A Scientific Treatise on Agricultural Chemistry, the 
Geology of Agriculture, on Plants and Animals, Manures 
and Soils, applied to Practical Agriculture; with a Cate- 
chism of Scientific and Practical Agriculture. 

Pedder's (James) Farmer's Land Measurer, 50 

Or Pocket Companion ; showing at one view the contents 

of any piece of Land from dimensions taken in yards. 

With a set of useful Agricultural Tables. 

Pbiii's Open Air Orape Culture and "Wine 

Making, 1 25 

Handall's Fine T¥ool Sheep Husbandry, . 75 

Randall's (Henry S.) §lieep Husbandry, . 1 25 

With an Account of the Different Breeds, and gen- 
eral Directions with regard to Summer and Winter Man- 
agement, Breeding, and the Treatmsnt of Diseases, with 
new chapters by Randall and G. W. Kendall, upon Sheep 
raising in Texas, with Portraits and other Engravings. 8vo. 

Riehardson on I>og;s ; their Origin and Va- 
rieties. . • 50 

Directions as to their General MlNAOEMEiiT, with nu- 
merous Original Anecdotes: also Complete Instructions 
as tp Treatment under Disease. By H. D. Richardson. 
Illustrated with numerous Wood Engravings. This is not 



BY 0. M. SAXTON, NEW YORK. 95 

only a cheap, but one of the best works ever published on 
the Dog. 
Robbiiis' Produce and Ready Reckoner, $ 60 

Embracing Tables for all kinds of Grain, Timber, Wood, 
Hay and other Merchandise, Stone Wall and Cistern Mea- 
sure, Monthly Wages and Interest. 
Skillful Housewife, , 50 

Or, Complete Guide to Domestic Cookery, Taste, Com- 
fort, and Economy, Embracing 659 Recipes pertaining to 
Household Duties, the care of Health, Gardening, Birds, 
Education of Children, &c, &c. By Mrs. L. G. Abell. 
Slieplierd's Own Book, . . . . $ 2 00 
With an account of the Different Breeds, Diseases 
and Management of Sheep, and General Directions in re- 
gard to Summer and Winter Management, Breeding, and 
the Treatment of Diseases ; by Youatt & Randall : em- 
bracing Skinner's Notes on the Breed and Management of 
Sheep in the United States, and on the Culture of fine 

Wool. With Illustrative Engravings. 8vo. 
Sclienck's Gardener's Text Book, ... 50 

Containing Directions for the Forming and Manage- 
ment of the Kitchen Garden, the Culture and Use of Veg- 
etables, Fruits and Medicinal Herbs. 

Thomas' (J. J.) American Fruit Culturist, 1 25 
With Directions for the Orchard, Nursery and Garden, and 
Descriptions of American and Foreign Varieties, with 300 
accurate Figures. 

fouatt and Spooner on the Horse, . . 1 25 
His Structure, and Diseases with their Remedies: also, 



96 AGRICULTURAL BOOKS PUBLISHED 

Practical Rules to Buyers, Breeders, Breakers, Smiths, &c, 
with Notes by Spooner. The only complete American 
Edition, with an Account of the Breeds in the United 
States and Canadas, by H. S. Randall, with sixty 111 us 
trations. 

Yoiiatt and ITIartin on Cattle, • • • $1 25 
Being a Treatise on their Breeds, Management, Dis- 
eases : comprising a full History of the various Races ; 
their Origin, Breeding and Merits ; their capacity for Beef 
and Milk. By W. Youatt and W. C. L. Martin. The 
whole forming a complete Guide for the Farmer, the Ama- 
teur and Veterinary Surgeon, with 100 Illustrations. Ed 
ited by Ambrose Stevens. 

Youatt and Martin on tlie Mo^, ... 75 
A Treatise on the Breeds, Management, and Medical 
Treatment of Swine, with Directions for Salting Pork and 
Curing Bacon and Hams. By Wm. Youatt, Y. S, and W. 
C. L. Martin. Edited by Ambrose Stevens. Illustrated 
with Engravings drawn from life. 

Touatt on ISheep, ...-•.. 75 
Their Breed, Management and Diseases, with Illustra- 
tive Engravings ; to which are added. Remarks on the 
Breeds and Management of Sheep in the United States, 
and on the Culture of Fine Wools in Silesia. 8vo. 

Young Farmer's Manual and Work-shop, 1 25 
Detailing the Manipulation of the Farm, in a plain 
and intelligible manner, with Practical Directions for lay- 
ing out a Farm, and Erecting Buildings, Fences, and Farm 
Gates J also embracing the Young Farmer's Work-shop ; 



BY C. M. SAXTON, NEW TORK. 



giving full Directions for tlie Selection of good Farm and 
Shop Tools, their manufacture and use, with numerous 
original Illustrations of Fences, Gates and Tools, aud the 
manner of performing nearly every branch of Farming op- 
eration. By S. Edwards Todd. 450 pages. 200 Illus- 
trations. 



1} 



{ 

RURAL AND DOMESTIC HAND-BOOKS. 

PAPER COVERS. 

Aaitericaii Kitclicu Gardener, • . . 25 

Containing Directions for the Cultivation of Ycgetablcs 
and Garden Fruits. By T. G. Fessenden. 

American Horse Tamer, . (Cloth,) . 50 

Showing how to Cure the Wildest and most vicious Ilorse 7 p 
of all his bad Habits. By Jeremiah Bentwright. x»}s 

Bee Cnlture, 25 C 

A Guide to a Successful and Profitable Method of keeping 
Bees, the result of many years' Experience. By Henry jjjh 
Eddy, M. D. 

€licmi§try Made £a$iy, ..... 25 

For the use of Farmers. By J. Topiiam. 

Culture of Flax, 25 

Its Treatment, Agricultural and Technical : delivered before 
the New York State' Agricultural Society at the Annual 
Fair at Saratoga, in September last, by John Wilson, late 
President of the Royal Agricultural Society, Cholchester, 
England. 

Horse's Foot, and Iloiv to keep it Sound, 25 

With Cuts Illustrating the Anatomy of the Foot, and con- 
taining Valuable Hints on Shoeing and Stable Manage- 
ment, both in Health and Disease. By W. Miles. 



r THE AMERICAN STOCK JOURNAL 

: For 1 8 6 4 . 

[ J%'ow is the tiBBie to get Wew $t»us>S4;riber§. 

, Fourteen Numbers FOR One Dollar! 

I One Preminin of Taylor's South Down Buck Lamb, worth $oO. 
' One Premium of Taylor's South Down Buck Lamb, worth $40. 
' Volume Sixth will commence January 1st, 1864. Tiie Pub- 
j lisher has concluded to close the present volume with the De- 
' ccmber number, so as to commence the New Volume witii the 
New Year. All our present subscribers will be supplied to 
p May inclusive. All such may receive the Journal to De- 
cember, 1864, by sendijig Seventy-five Cents to the Publisher. 

Terms and Premiums For 1864. 

1st. — Any person sendino- 150 names and $150, shall re- 
ceive 150 copies of the Stock Journal, and one of Taylor's South 
Down Buck Lambs, price $50, which will be delivered in. New York 
to order. 

2d. — Any person sending 125 names and $125 in moncv, 
shall receive 1 25 copies of the Journal, and one of Taylor's South 
Down Buck Lambs, price $40. 

3d. — Any person sendinir ns 100 names and $100 in cfish, 
shall receive 100 copies of tiie Journal, and one copy of Herbert's 
Horses of America, price $10, and one of Farmer's Eucyclopasdia, 
h price $5. 

i> 4th. — Any person sending us 15 names and $75 in money, 
y shall receive 75 Journals, and Coleman's Agriculture, price $6, and 
t\ EandaU's and Youutt's Shepherd's Own Book, price $2. 
k? 5th — Any person sending us 50 names, and $50 in money, 
I. shall receive 50 Journals and Randall & Youatt's Shepherd's Own 
If Book, price $2, and Randall & Youatt on the Horso, price $1,25, and 
N Randall's Fine "Wool Sheep Husbandry, price 75 ceuts. 
\j 6th. — Any person sending us 20 names and $15, shall re- 
1^ ceive 20 Journals, and one Shepherd's Own Book, price $2. 
k 7th. — Any person sending us 10 names and $8, shall re- 
K ceive 10 Journals and one Herbert's Hints to Horse Keepers, or Ybu- 
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i lOth. — For $1, sent previous to January 1st, the Journal 
L will be sent from November, 1863, to December, 186i. Address all 
P communications to 

I) C. M. SAXTON, 

uf .A.gricultu.r'al JBoolt 3? u."b lisher, iNT. Y. 

p D. C. LlN'SLEY, ) ^J,^'^.^^„ 



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